OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Natural pro requiredStart in the scrub and move up over the ledge to meet the climb proper. Delicately up the thin crack with indifferent pro including lots of micro-cams. Move left for gear (extenders required) just below the bulge, then up through (crux) and balance up the steep wall to anchors directly above. Gear is plentiful but not gold standard – very small or in flares or shallow slots. (Bolts were placed on adjacent routes done later).