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Upper Shindig Gully

Type
Sector
Part of
Twin Stream

Reach Upper Shindig Gully by climbing beyond the huge chockstone that straddles the gully floor.
To descent from these routes:

  • walk off left from the ridge line or Lunch Ledge back into Shindig Guly; or
  • abseil Upper Atrium to Lunch Ledge (the anchors are 3–4m below the ridge lineand the downclimb is tricky and exposed); and
  • abseil from Lunch Ledge. Locate a single bolt beside a left-facing corner. The edge of the corner comes to a sharp point and has a hole drilled through it. Use the bolt and thread to abseil to the first-pitch belay of Fibrillator, then another 40m abseil to the gully floor.
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Jam Crack, 14 14 55m 3
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 55m
  • 3
  • Trad

From Lunch Ledge, climb a short section on nice rock to a ledge (possible to walk off right and rappel from the anchors of Upper Atrium’s first pitch), or link cracks to the top finishing left of Upper Atrium.

 Upper Atrium, 20 20 55m 3
2.01
  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • Trad

Climb the crack then move right to a bolt belay.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 40m
  • 3
  • Trad

A classic pitch, continually steeper and thinner. Up and trending leftwards into a crack with good pro until bolts lead out onto the face for a stunning finish. Huge exposure in the centre of the wall. Bolt belay.

 Girl Germs, 20 20 60m 3
1.02

Start up Upper Atrium, then head right to the brilliant left facing corner.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • Trad

Start up Upper Atrium.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 45m
  • 3
  • Trad

Head right into a brilliant left-facing corner. Bolt belay.

 Tachycardia, 23 23 0m 8
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 8

Follow the left side of the heart-shaped feature to a bolt belay.

  • P2
  • 23
  • 5
  • Trad

Continue up the wall to a bolt belay on Lunch Ledge. Easy walk off or climb one of the routes on the upper wall.

 Fibrillator, 22 22 80m 13
3

A stonker through the heart-shaped feature.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 50m
  • 13

Start at the bottom left of the “heart“ and traverse rightwards along a ledge (2 bolts) then straight up the wall to a bolt belay above the heart.

  • P2
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 9
  • Trad

Head up and left from the belay and through an overlap (look for the v groove) and up onto an improbably smooth looking wall that unfolds nicely as you move up (the holds are there). Head up to a second overlap with some trad up easier ground to Lunch Ledge. Either rap, walk off or continue up one of the upper wall routes.

 Hungry Heart, 16 16 140m 2
2.01

A good multi-pitch route for the grade. Walk off or abseil Upper Atrium and Fibrillator.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 35m
  • 2
  • Trad

Climb the recessed face past a bolt at 8m, then break left through the Boy Germs overlap on jugs. Keep your cool up to a second bolt and onwards to the bolt belay.

  • P2
  • 15
  • 35m
  • Trad

Follow a shallow groove on the face, 2–3m left of a flaky corner system.

  • P3
  • 15
  • 35m
  • Trad

This great pitch looks intimidating from the belay, but unfolds beautifully through the stepped overlap onto Lunch Ledge. Move gingerly around the suspect blocks.

  • P4
  • 15
  • 35m
  • Trad

Continue to a natural anchor on the ridgeline.

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d2e90b22-2beb-4fc2-bd87-c576a6693cae