|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Climb into upper Shindig Gully (beyond the huge chockstone that straddles the gully floor) until the heart shaped wall appears. Start at bottom left of 'heart' and traverse rightwards along a ledge (protected by 2 bolts) then straight up wall to a belay above the 'heart'
Head up and left from belay and through a narrow v groove and onto an improbably smooth looking wall - it unfolds nicely as you move up. (the holds are there though). Head up to a second overlap then a bit of trad up easier ledges to Lunch Ledge. Continue up a choice of routes to the top or rappel the route.
Two pitches. The first goes through the heart shaped feature. A stonker!
Steve Carr, Des Smith December 2000 FFA