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Southerly Front

Grade
23
Length
0m
8
Natural pro required
Quality
3
First ascent
Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, Robyn Thompson (pitches 1–4), February 1996
Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, Tony Pine (pitches 5–6), February 1998
Located on
Southerly Front Slab

The classic Twin Stream line. Start below the large chockstone. Take a small rack of wires, RPs and cams to 4cm.
The first four pitches took a week to put up because of the need to make frequent runs back to Mount Cook Village to recharge the six-volt battery used to drill the ultra hard greywacke, combined with a southerly storm that plastered the wall with ice. Andy Mafarlane endured a 13m whipper on the fourth crux pitch during the first ascent.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 7
  • Trad

Climb the shallow pillar to a horizontal break and traverse right to belay.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 8
  • Trad

Follow the line of bolts. Bolt count estimate only.

  • P3
  • 23
  • 8
  • Trad

Follow the line of bolts. Bolt count estimate only.

  • P4
  • 23
  • 8
  • Trad

Follow the line of bolts. Bolt count estimate only. Very spicy.

  • P5
  • 18
  • 8
  • Trad

The intensity eases once the ledge is reached. Bolt count estimate only.

  • P6
  • 15
  • 8
  • Trad

Climb to the top. Bolt count estimate only.

Comments
cragrat
content_editor

28/12/15 Southerly Front has had some damage from rockfall but is climbable.

Mon, 28/12/2015 - 12:40 Permalink
UUID
 
6dfafc55-9e54-4198-b729-5168c5092a36