Southerly Front Slab

(14 routes)

This impressive feature of tilted greywacke is separated from the main wall at the top and is free of stone-fall danger except in the white corner and around the scree gully at its base. The climbs can be approached by climbing a two pitch route on the lower Half-Moon Slab or via an easy gully up past the Half-Moon Slab.

Hugh Logan, with Paul Scaife made the first ascent of the buttress in Nov 1976 via a line on L edge of the slab, and then continued to the ridge to Mt. Dark via another buttress 70 metres up for four good climbing pitches (with one severe pitch) and had a slightly epical descent down a snow-ice filled Shindig Gully. ; In December 1977 Hugh climbed another line with John Herbison, at a higher grade, to the top of the Buttress just left of the Logan-Scaife route .

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Gomers Go Round 18 ,17 ,17
0
TBA
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mNo
 TBA
2170mNo
 TBA
3170mNo
 TBA
Climbed by Alastair Mark and Murray Judge to gain access. April 1997
Gomers Go To Ground 24
2.01
Three bolts and a little natural pro, some very fine slab climbing.
Alastair Mark, April 1997
Fully Wired 22 ,20
0
From the first belay of Pulp Friction traverse left 3m and climb to bolt, them through bulge and seam to bolt belay at full rope length. Second pitch straight up past two bolts to grassy cracks then move right to third belay of Pulp Friction.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1220mNo
 TBA
2200mNo
 TBA
Duncan Chessell, Darren Williams, February 1999
Pulp Friction 19 ,20 ,19 ,17 ,13 ,16
2.01
Straight up the centre of the Left hand slab. Amazing first pitch on perfect rock. The next two pitches are almost as good. Rap top belay of Southerly Front to ledge then down Rock Vandals bolts. Take your RPs.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mNo
 TBA
2200mNo
 TBA
3190mNo
 TBA
4170mNo
 TBA
5130mNo
 TBA
6160mNo
 TBA
Alastair Mark, Murray Judge, April 1997
Ground Hog Day 17 ,19 ,20
0
Climb pitch one of Southerly Front to the traverse and continue up the shallow pillar to belay on a flake. Climb the pillar to the roof and a quick pull onto the upper slab and up to belay ledge, traverse left across the slab and up the left hand edge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1170mNo
 TBA
2190mNo
 TBA
3200mNo
 TBA
Tony Pine, Murray Judge, January 1999
Southerly Front 17 ,20 ,23 ,23 ,18 ,15
3
1
The frst four pitches of Southerly Front took aweek to put up because of the need to make fequent runs back to Mount Cook to recharge the six volt battery used to drill the ultra hard greywacke. Andy Mafarlane endured a thirteen metre whipper on the fourth crux pitch during the first ascent. Start below the large chockstone, climb the shallow pillar to a horizontal break and traverse left to the belay. Three pitches up the right hand slab to the ledge below the headwall.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1170mNo
 TBA
2200mNo
 TBA
3230mNo
 TBA
4230mNo
 TBA
5180mNo
 TBA
6150mNo
 TBA
Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, Robyn Thompson, February 1996
Sticky Date Pudding 24 ,24
0
1
Two long pitches to the right of Southerly Front.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1240mNo
 TBA
2240mNo
 TBA
Alastair Mark, Geoff Ellis, January 1998
Rock Vandals 20 ,22 ,14 ,16
0
Two pitches on the right of the white corner. Grades 20, 22 to the ledge, climb the upper wall on natural gear. Grade 14, 16 to bolt belays.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1200mNo
 TBA
2220mNo
 TBA
3140mNo
 TBA
4160mNo
 TBA
Tony Pine, Murray Judge Andrew Macfarlane, February 1998
The Western World 21 ,22
0
TBA
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1210mNo
 TBA
2220mNo
 TBA
Andrew Macfarlane, Andrew Taylor, Grant Piper February 1998
March Hare 17 ,18 ,17 ,16 20m
2.01
wire representing trad 1
Three excellent pitches up the arête, grades 17, 18, 17. Great position and exposure at the grade – a must.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1170mNo
 TBA
2180mNo
 TBA
3170mNo
 TBA
41620mYes
 January Hare. From the top of March Hare, climb the buttress and crack system to the top of the pinnacle. Belay and rap off large bollards on top.
Murray Judge, Tony Pine, Hayden Mackay, January 1998
Forced March 18 ,20
1.02
From the belay at the top of the first pitch of March Hare go right to the ledge and climb the slabs 7m right of the arête.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mNo
 TBA
2200mNo
 TBA
Sam Brooks, Murray Judge, March 2000
Stealing a March 16 ,17 ,18
0
The climb that started modern development of the crag. "Andy Macfarlane was on the phone, excited: I’ve just seen the biggest unclimbed slab in Australasia and we’re going to put a route up the middle of it." Dave Brash, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 2001. From the valley scree climb a broken rock pillar (the right hand of the three pillars) to the base of Southerly Front slabs. The broken rib leads to a groove left of the arête, higher up traverse right around the arête to a thin crack on the upper wall.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1160mNo
 TBA
2170mNo
 TBA
3180mNo
 TBA
John McCartney, Andrew Macfarlane, December 1995
Corner Chimney
0
The wide crack and chimney line on the right of the upper wall.
Murray Judge and Tony Pine in January 1998
Splitting Hares 17 ,18
0
The right hand of the two cracks in the wall right of the chimney, starting off the ledge level with the first belay of March Hare. Natural gear.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1170mYes
 TBA
2180mYes
 TBA
Stu Allan, Kynan Bazeley, March 2000