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Tactical Wall

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 25 May 2026, by JP.

The 2026 climbing season at Whanganui Bay starts on Saturday 30 May and ends on Monday 30 November. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.

Type
Sector
Part of
Aspect
North West
Approach

The Plateau access track takes you to the cliff right below A Change of Tune.

Walktime
15 min
Image
Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
14a 14aHone Puta Inaianei, 16 16 8m 3
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 8m
  • 3

The short buttress with three bolts and more climbing than first appears. Anchor at the back of the ledge.


14 14Ooh Um It Art, 20 20 20m 5
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 5
  • Trad

From the top of Hone Puta Inaianai head towards tight V-corner, clipping whatever bolts you can find and then placing gear in thin crack. Head left onto the face at the overhang, picking up three more bolts and some small gear at the end. Seldom climbed.


15 15Hoover Hog, 22 22 26m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 26m
  • 7

A great find from Mike Rockell. Start at the top of Hone Puta Inaianai. Climb the pleasant slab to gain the honeycomb wall. There are no bolts on this section so be careful (or take a medium cam and stuff it in one of the pockets). After a breather, tackle the steep bulge and pumpy headwall above. It is possible to climb Hone Puta Inaianai and Hoover Hog as one long pitch if you have a 70 metre rope. Either way, the route deserves more traffic.


15a 15aTom Fetch That Stick, 18 18 20m 6
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 6
  • Trad

Climb Hone Puta, and move up and right to a small roof. Head past this, moving right and up the face to a ledge behind mānuka bushes. Likely to be extremely mossy.


16 16Last Words of Hassan Sabbah, 23 23 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 6

Once a Roland Foster death route, now a clip-up for the masses. Head up the red bulging wall on good holds to the mossy slab above. The fourth bolt is tricky to clip but it’s better than an RP! Finish at the ledge.


16a 16aLast Words of Dutch Schultz, 24 24 15m 6
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 6

To the right of Hassan Sabbah, this line tackles the obvious bulge with some difficulty.


17 17Asking for Absolution, 22 22 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 6

A fine pitch that deserves more traffic. From the ledge at the top of Last Words, a bouldery starts leads to enjoyable climbing on the upper wall. Makes a fine two-pitch outing with Last Words.


 Down To Zero, 21 21 12m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 12m
  • 3

Climb the shady groove to the Smear Tactics/Tactical Variation anchor.


 Infinite Variation, 22 22 45m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 45m
  • 6
  • Trad

Climb Down to Zero and just keep going up Tactical Variation, for a dead straight monster pitch.


18 18Smear Tactics, 20 20 35m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 18m
  • 3
  • Trad

Climb the lichenous slab with three bolts and gear in the crack and behind the flake.


  • P2
  • 20
  • 17m
  • 2
  • Trad

Go up the thin crack and stay left of the roof, clipping two bolts on the way. Finish up thin cracks on gear. There is a superior ‘tactical variation’ on this pitch (Anne Palmer, 1988) that goes up the face to left of the crack with three bolts and then rejoins Smear Tactics at the roof.


19 19Aimless, 22 22 25m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 7

Start up Smear Tactics. Above the third bolt, head up and right to the base of the obvious arête feature. Follow the bolts up the arête to an airy crux just below the ledge.


20 20Nameless, 26 26 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 26
  • 15m
  • 6

Start up the slab just right of Smear Tactics. From the top of the slab, tackle the tilted wall on sloping crimps and pinches. Bolted and graded for the multitudes. So what are you waiting for?


21 21Graemeless, 25 25 15m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 5

Climbed by Roland the day after reading about the death of Graeme Aimer. Start up the low-angle groove left of Something Outrageous then follow the white diagonal feature through the steep bulge. Fun, cranky climbing.


22 22Something Outrageous, 21 21 35m 5
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • 4

Start up the slab just right of Graemeless, then punch through the gently overhanging wall.


  • P2
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 5

Not really recommended. At a minimum it would need a good clean and a rebolt.


23 23Bunny in the Sky, 17 17 10m 5
1.02

Actually called Bunny in Disguise. Climbed at Easter - named after the person who was walking around the crag giving Easter Eggs to everyone.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 5

Head up low-angle slab to anchor on the ledge.


 Feckless, 19 19 32m 10
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 32m
  • 10

Start up Bunny. At the Bunny anchor, climb onto the left arete and follow the bolts for days.


24 24Reckless, 19 19 30m 8
3

  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 8
  • Trad

Climb Bunny in the Sky to its belay ledge (originally you had to climb the damp and dirty groove just right) and then cut loose up the long crack/groove feature, placing gear as you go. Swings right above the last bolt to the ledge. Recommended.


25 25Pumice Stone Kid, 25 25 30m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 8

A stunning line up the undulating pillar right of Reckless. Unlike Reckless, it is not cool to start this route up Bunny in the Sky, leaving you, prospective ascentionist, with the unenviable task of climbing the damp, dirty and overgrown groove. It is a long way to the first bolt, but feel free to overgrip as the top is more fun when you’re pumped out of your mind. Would be three stars if it wasn’t for the bottom section.


26 26A Change of Tune, 18 18 12m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • 5

The left side of the face with the vertical feature is climbed on pockets and slopers. Popularity exceeds quality by some margin.


27 27Schneiderburner, 21 21 12m 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 12m
  • 4

Just left of the overhang. A feisty route with a tricky crux sequence. You’ll either love it or hate it.


28 28The Human Lada, 26 26 12m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 26
  • 12m
  • 4

Tackles the cruxy overhang at top speed. Easy if your bio-engineering originates in the former Eastern Bloc.


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UUID
 
54341df8-2b4c-4f4d-a854-3a701c1a0cd9