Skip to main content

Smear Tactics

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 25 May 2026, by JP.

The 2026 climbing season at Whanganui Bay starts on Saturday 30 May and ends on Monday 30 November. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.

Grade
20
Length
35m
3
Natural pro required
Quality
1.02
First ascent
Grant Davidson, 1984
Located on
Tactical Wall
Topo ref
18
  • P1
  • 20
  • 18m
  • 3
  • Trad

Climb the lichenous slab with three bolts and gear in the crack and behind the flake.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 17m
  • 2
  • Trad

Go up the thin crack and stay left of the roof, clipping two bolts on the way. Finish up thin cracks on gear. There is a superior ‘tactical variation’ on this pitch (Anne Palmer, 1988) that goes up the face to left of the crack with three bolts and then rejoins Smear Tactics at the roof.

Add Ascent  Join NZAC to record ascents.
Comments
Attribution
Rock Deluxe North
UUID
 
80642bb2-774c-4f4e-82f5-384d4a3940f8