OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Updated 28 June 2025, by Richard Thomson.
Whanganui Bay is now open to climbers until 30 November 2025. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.
Smear Tactics
OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Grade
20
Length
35m
3
Natural pro requiredQuality
First ascent
Grant Davidson, 1984
Located on
Topo ref
18
- P1
- 20
- 18m
- 3
- Trad
Climb the lichenous slab with three bolts and gear in the crack and behind the flake.
- P2
- 20
- 17m
- 2
- Trad
Go up the thin crack and stay left of the roof, clipping two bolts on the way. Finish up thin cracks on gear. There is a superior ‘tactical variation’ on this pitch (Anne Palmer, 1988) that goes up the face to left of the crack with three bolts and then rejoins Smear Tactics at the roof.
Comments
Attribution
Rock Deluxe North
UUID
80642bb2-774c-4f4e-82f5-384d4a3940f8