Lobotomy Buttress

Type

Part of

A prominent pillar looming above the road, where it begins to climb up above the gorge. Almost everything here is grade 20!

Rights credit

Tom Hoyle/NZAC

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Dazed and Confused, 20	20	10m	3	0
P1 20 10m 3 The most left-hand route with ring bolts, climbs the short wall to the ledge.
2	2Punishment of Luxury, 20	20	14m	5	1.02
P1 20 14m 5 Second route from the left. Climb the wall finishing left of the bush on interesting atypical ignimbrite holds.
3	3Slip Kid, 20	20	14m	3	1.02
P1 20 14m 3 Third route from the left. Start at miniature overlap and finish on ledge to the right of the bush. These days it is common to do this route as the first pitch of Duudoo so you can belay from the nice ledge.
	The Paregoric Paua Fritter Passion, 25	25	28m	9	3
P1 25 28m 9 The original route (which featured multi-carrot bolt "runners") started at the Slip Kid belay and finished at the top of the vegetated offwidth. The re-imagined version starts from the ground as per the original start to Duudoos. Follow the ring bolts just right of Slip Kid, tending slightly left as you gain height. The bolting spacing and difficultly increases until the crux is reached high on the route. Fortunately, you don't need to clean or climb the offwidth because there's a new anchor there or thereabouts.
4	4Duudooduudo, 21	21	40m	7	3
P1 21 20m 7 Apparently the name is onomatopoeic for the sound of impending doom as your forearms tire. Originally a two pitch route. Either climb the original start (the ring bolts just right of Slip Kid) or Evolution to the cave at around mid-height and bring your belayer up or, better still, just keep climbing all the way to the top. P2 20 20m 7 Superlative climbing on the upper face, with spaced bolts and a simply mega view. Take care when getting off the route. You will need at least a 70 metre rope to get back to the ground in one rap/lower.
5	5Turbomingent Torremounting Tossers, 22	22	25m	7	3
P1 22 25m 7 An alternative to the second pitch of Duudoo. Starts the same but goes right on the face to the arete and then up via some classy moves. A great position makes this well worth the effort of finding a willing belayer.
6	6Evolution, 20	20	17m	8	1.02
P1 20 17m 8 Is everything on the bottom of this wall grade 20? Starts up the white left leaning ramp. After clipping the ring bolt head through the overlap and straight up the wall until cave and anchor can be gained by traversing right.
7	7Zip Zap, 22	22	12m	5	1.02
P1 22 12m 5 Finally, something on the lower wall that isn’t 20! The white streak heading straight up at the start of the Evolution ramp and sharing the same first bolt. Has an anchor just below the cave.
8	8Nobody’s Hero, 18	18	11m	5	0
P1 18 11m 5 Takes on the wall just to the right of the rooflet, trending slightly left and up between the bushes.
9	9B.A.R.T, 17	17	11m	4	0
P1 17 11m 4 Shares same first bolt as Nobody’s Hero but from there goes right via three more ring bolts and finishes through notch in overhang.

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UUID

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