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Fog Pk

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 18 December 2024, by Richard Thomson.

Permission is required to cross private land. Log in for contact details.

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2240m
Part of
Harris Mountains
Lat/lon
-44.52285841,168.80439888, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CA11 666 615
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Accessed from
Matukituki River
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 East Ridge, II,2 II,2 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 2

Steep tussock slopes on the south side of Niger Stream lead out to the ridge between Niger and Fog Peaks. Fog Peak may be reached, either by traversing the rock ridge to the summit, or by cutting out on to the snowfield on the South Face. This is a long climb from the road and would probably take about eight hours to the summit.

1 1North Ridge, I,1 I,1 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 1

From Glenfinnan Peak the straightforward rock of the North Ridge leads to the summit ridge some 200m north-east of the summit.
2 2West Ridge, I,2 I,2 0m
0

Crossing the North Ridge between Glenfinnan and Fog Peaks and traversing on suitable ledges across the steep North Face of Fog Peak until the West Ridge provides a straightforward route to the summit. To be climbed comfortably, this route would probably require a camp near Glenfinnan Peak. For permission to cross farmland you must contact Mt Aspiring Station manager Randall Aspinall, 03 443 7155.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
3 3HMH, WI3 WI3 100m
0

This stunning flow is easily reached using a helicopter and then skiing out
down the Leaping Burn. It is at the head of the East Branch of the Polnoon
Burn on the south-eastern slopes of Fog Peak. The name is in recognition of
the Heli ski guides who passed on the location of this classic line.

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3
  • 50m

The first pitch climbs 80º stepped ice, ending in an ice cave large enough to shelter four people.

  • P2
  • Water Ice WI5
  • 50m

The second pitch erupts out of the cave and onto a 40-metre pillar. If the left hand side is climbed, the grade is WI3+ on 85º stepped ice. If the right side is clung to then vertical grade 5 climbing can be expected. On the first ascent the left-hand side was climbed.

Images

Comments
This place appears in
Cover of Tititea Aspiring and the Otago Alps
Tititea Aspiring and the Otago Alps, 2024
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Allan Uren & John Cocks. Photo; DG Bishop, & Paul Scaife
UUID
 
01aa6163-1b44-4dd8-9f34-be6979145eeb