OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
A long one-pitch route. Start in the gully right of the slab and climb black rock up a short corner (crux) to a ledge; past vegetation to another ledge and corner and on up to an easy slab below the overhang. Break through on the left in the corner (high bolt); followed by straightforward slab climbing with spaced bolts to a final bulge. Manoeuvre past this slightly rightward to good holds, and cruise to the anchor chain. Nine bolts.