OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Start on the black rock slightly further right. Follow sloping ledges and small protrusions heading slightly rightward until the terrain steepens abruptly. Pull up on absurdly good jugs to a tricky denouement where smaller holds are required for a move; then up easily across the low-angled slab heading left to the two-ring anchor station. About 7 bolts. Finish up one of the other routes.