Mt Dechen

From the Landsborough, climb the spur on the north side of Dechen Creek through bush to reach the Dechen Glacier. Thead through crevasses to the ill-defined south ridge and on to the summit.

Follow Pass Creek to 640m, then climb out to the right onto the spur. This spur has also been ascended all the way from the Landsborough valley floor. Traverse Mt Gordon and follow the south ridge to the extensive McCardell Glacier which provides easy travel to the summit.

The large snow couloir by the Eye Tooth Falls provides access to the McCardell Glacier. The couloir is best approached when there is plenty of snow about. An ice bulge near the top of the couloir can prove troublesome late in the season. Ice cliffs on the McCardell Glacier occasionally shed significant amounts of ice into the couloir. The first ascent commenced from near the former
Lake Otoko, which has subsequently filled in.

From the upper Edison River, gain the col north-east of Mt Dechen and then climb the broad, snowy ridge to the summit.