Local name for the truncated base of the North Ridge of Mitre Peak.
Up to 200m vertical walls, a massive capping overhang, and slabs on the west side. Logistics can be a little tricky but well repaid by some of the most spectacular climbing anywhere.
Accessed via sea to the point, it is recommended that you travel to and from CP in the early morning if you are in personal craft as the sea breeze during the day makes travel difficult and sometimes dangerous.
All routes can be accessed directly from the water. a single ring-bolt is placed above the high tide mark so climbers can clip in and sort gear after disembarking.You can also Rap in to all routes and climb back out if you are at CP for multiple days without a vessel. Closest good camping is at Bridal Veil Falls beach, 1km west. Moraine Beach, 3km west, also offers camping plus more climbing. By sea-kayak it is about 2 hours from Deep Water Cove. Try Roscos Sea Kayaks for water taxi options (2020/2021 price $80PP return this should be organised by email beforehand) .
Copper Point juts out into the Sound and constricts the sea breeze so it can get blowy. On the plus side, this often keeps the sandflies away. Wind shells, long sleeves, long thin socks you can climb in and insect repellent are all a good idea.
The Track off the top is well cut and marked(pink) back to camp/beach. It will take about 1 hour to walk back to the beach.
There are two turn-offs to the Boaty Mc Boat face and Titanic along the way which are marked in Orange tape.
Routes 1-6 are on copper points main face.
Route 7 Titanic is a closed project
Routes 8 & 9 are on the Boaty Mc Boat Face. which is listed as a separate face see below.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Straight out of lock down, 25 | 25 |  |
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Gear
Pitch one 20, 45m, move right off the single bolt belay. Up crack for 5m then move left to join the nice crack line. ( do not go straight up the crack that splits the roof above as its loose) belay on sloping ledge or link with pitch 2 and belay at the base of the pillar. Pitches three -m four 23, 35m climb as a single pitch or belay on small sloping ledge mid height. At the top of the crack move left past single bolt to double bolt belay on the edge of the prow. A wild stance and an awesome pitch. Move five meters through bush to the base of the next pitch. Being careful not to fall in the hole at the base of this pitch. Pitch five 25, 17m, six bolts Stick clip or stand in sling off the belay bolt and pre clip the first bolt. Crux is off the deck then the climbing eases to a small sting at the end of the pitch. Pitch six 19, 10m Trad with one bolt. We un earthed this pitch from the jungle but it should clean up well with some rain. Move up and left to a great stance and double bolt belay. Pitch seven 24, 17m six bolts Pitch eight 25, 35m the money pitch . This is the pitch of the climb. Amazing overhanging crack climbing. Save a number 1 nut and .4 cam for the final moves. |
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| 2 | 2Taratahi, 24 | 24 | |||||
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Climbs the large continuous black slab to the left of the main face of Copper Point. Can approach by boat or abseil. Well protected techy climbing on a fantastic sweep of rock.
P1: 21, 44m. Start from large square cut platform. Climb up crack on right, pull into corner further right past 3 bolts (crux). Climb splitter crack, then through the roof. Up slab past a bolt to belay on the left. P2: 18, 12m. Short pitch up slab. P3: 23, 40m, Traverse left to arete and up arete. Some tricky friction climbing, up groove, left to arete and belay on ledge P4: 24, 36m. Easiest to get to first bolt from left. Climb face to funky groove. Above groove step right to bolt, up and back left to belay. Superb. P5: 21, 25m. Layback steep arete on left side of roof, then up slab. Clip last bolt on ledge and step right to belay. P6: 23, 42m. A tricky step right of belay to crack. Up to 3rd bolt then left onto face. Some cool moves up knobs, right side of small roof and more slab angling right. P7 22, 30m. Cool climbing up flakes. Climb to top of rock! From belay, step left and up into scrub where a track takes you to open slabs. Follow up and right to knob on top of point where the normal descent track starts. |
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| 3 | 3Namu Namu Namu, 23,A0 | 23,A0 | |||||
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All belays double bolt with ring. Take two ropes. Scarmble up ledge from ocean. Belay at small tree. No ring on this route
1:18 45m: Left from belay, ramp to escape through arête onto slab. Belay under leatherwood. 2: 19 30m: Short slab, leatherwood, black slab to exit right through scrub onto spacious vegated ledge. 3: 23 45m: Left facing corner leads to searing arête, bit of a scramble at top. 4: 21 35m: From belay, 2 bolts lead to cracks, corner, more bolts lead to another spacious belay. 5: A0 12m: Steep bulge to right, traverse across the void to gut wrenching belay.Not yet free, will go at 26/27, bolted to A0 through cruxes 6: 22 35m: Corner, steeper than it looks, to belay at ledge. 7:22 20m: Exit via burly cracks past 3 bolts |
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| 4 | 4Ta Moko, 25 | 25 | |
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Mega classic up the beautiful orange rock. Start a single ring at the base of the big left facing corner (Sirens call) climb up via first two pitches of sirens call, then move left onto orange rock. exposed well protected climbing on great rock
P1: as for SC 16 50m P2: as for SC 22 30m p3: 22 20m Head out left from belay and up cracks. move left again to double bolt anchor P4:25 45m Up technical orange wall following bolts and then left on line of jugs P5: 23 30m Up corner left of belay then back right onto face. airy climbing on corner and pillar above. P6 22 40m great climbing on orange rock following bolts past double dykes P7 25 20m From belay climb slab out left and up under Roof. out the roof past two bolts, exposed. p8 21 15m up splitter crack to optional belay p9 25 20m out underclings and up into tricky groove, then move back left and belay on big ledge. can link with pitch 8 easily p10 15 30m shares the end of the last pitch of sirens call |
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| 4.5 | 4.5Fist Full Of Copper, 26 | 26 | 65m | 6 |
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A Direct finish for Ta Moko.
From Ta Moko anchor clip the single ring bolt and traverse hard right on jug rail to the crack above the ledge. Straight up past 1 bolt to the roof and out the roof crack past another bolt. Mantle onto great belay ledge. Save a 0.5 for the end.
Amazing groove pitch. Leave the belay left past bolt into tight stem. Stem past great wires and small cams to fun climbing up orange flakes. Rest out left before heading up the fused corner crack past 6 more bolts. Difficult laybacks, stemming and face climbing lead to a big ledge and belay. Leave the last bolt clipped to protect the rope from sharp edges. |
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| 5 | 5Sirens Call, 24 | 24 | |
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The big obvious corner that cuts a line down the main face. Good climbing on wild terrain. Rock improves in quality after the first pitch which is loose.
P1 16 50m 4B: Up slabby dirty corner to belay before steep ground below black roof. P2 23 30m 3B: Steeply up black rock to gain corner. P3 22 30m: Top out of lower corner into main corner. Take right hand flake P4 23 30m 7B: The corner. P5 24 24m 5B: Up corner then rising traverse to arête. P6 21 35m 3B: Out over the void, head up and left along the lip. P7 21 35m: Up an left to the edge. Top belay 2 bolts (no ring). 5m further up and right two 2 bolts with ring (for rap descent). |
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| 6 | 6Ship Of Fools, 19 | 19 | 170m | |
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19,18,19,18. 170m. Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave
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Added info and topo photo