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Petit Dur

Type
Mountain
Altitude
1800m
Part of
Taiaroa Pk

The pinnacle west of Taiaroa, above the glacier’s terminal lake.

Walktime
30 min
Aspect
North
Lat/lon
-44.678468,168.059428, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CB09 084 409
Approach

saunter up from Dur camp

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Armenian Direct, I,18 I,18 200m
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • 200m
  • Trad

Four pitches of increasing difficulty and commitment on the front face of the pinnacle.
 The Little Hard Climb, I,22 I,22 0m
2.01

P1: (20) friction slab then series of overhangs in weakness to belay at base
of corner.
P2: (22) corner with crux at top, which was turned on the arete/bulge on the
right
P3: (21) superb corner with crux exiting the corner to the right at the top,
belay on col between peaks
P4: final pitch of Armenian to main summit

  • P1
  • 22
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Trad
 A Little to the Left (?), 21 21 107m
1.02

To begin, either traverse in from above via the steep slabs to a gain a prominent ledge, or rope up from below to add another pitch.
P1: (21) 45m -
P2: (21) 62m -

  • P1
  • 21
  • 45m
  • Trad

From the ledge, climb the obvious weaknesses to a right-leaning slab. Belay at the top of this.

  • P2
  • 21
  • 62m
  • Trad

Climb corner then step left onto steep slab, pull bulge, then step right to join the top pitch of Armenian Direct.

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Comments
UUID
 
8152933f-5593-45ae-9ea6-c60f2209e9bc