OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Natural pro requiredStart as for The Bad Bohemian, move right after a few moves and continue up slabs on the crest (spaced pro) as far right as possible to a sharp arête (gear at start) to a faint ledge, then climb steep cracks as for the Bad Bohemian finish (crux). Belay from chockstones on left. Abseil rings are another 3m left.