Glengyle Pk | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2283m

Part of

Glengyle is an impressive sight from Aspiring Hut, although it is in fact little more than a bump on the South Ridge of Rob Roy. The crags and towers of Glengyle are sometimes mistakenly called the Cathedral Peaks, however that name was originally applied to all peaks between Bevan and Glengyle on the northeast side of the West Matukituki.

Lat/lon

POINT (168.705072 -44.466948)

Accessed from

Matukituki River West Branch

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	South Ridge, II,2	II,2	0m	0
Climb to the ridge by way of a clearing through the bush, across the river and slightly downstream from Wilson’s Camp. From the crest of the ridge cross into a basin on the west side of the South Ridge of Rob Roy and traverse across this into a second basin to reach the foot of a mixed snow and rock ridge leading to the summit. The climb requires about 10 hours from Cascade Hut to the summit and a bivvy high on the slopes opposite Wilson’s Camp would be desirable. P1 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Mt Cook) 2
	West Face, II,2	II,2	0m	0
There appears to be no problem in forcing a route up through steep bush into the snow tussock basins below the peak, from where there are a variety of interesting looking rock routes to the summit. About seven hours from Aspiring Hut. P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) II
	West Face. Following Dave., II,3	II,3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 Access from terminal moraine under Rob Roy.
	South Face Central Gully, 4-	4-	0m	0
5 pitches with zilch gear up the snowy middle of the face. Some short near vertical steps mostly 50+ degrees and ok. Tricky to get to summit along ridge P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-

Comments

Attribution

Allan Uren & John Cocks

UUID

221802a9-6303-4882-b5e9-e09ede7b94ba