Morning Glory

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Pitch-1 Climb the chimney system of cracks, flakes and chock stones belay back of central pillar and the obvious suspened chock stone. Pitch-2 From top of chock stone move right ward over a curvy bulge flake and through steeper ground exit the right gully as left offers little protection. Belay using large boulder set back from cliff top.
Reference: 
2
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11645mYes
 

This is the first climb to link through from the white dragon wall to the cliff top, climb done onsite.
This climbs the right side of the main obvious central buttress.
Start 6-7m left of the top of Blue eyes white dragon climb this can be done as your 1st pitch.
The climb offers a big wall atmosphere, it follows a chimney system of large cracks, flakes and chock stones.
Good gear take at least two large pieces 4,5 camalot size, plenty of hex placments.
Belay at behind the top of central buttress below a large chock stone wedge between the headwall and the gendarme pillar of rock which is the top of central buttress.

21815mYes
 

Climb on to the chock stone.
At this point your can detour and stand ontop of the free standing pillar yahoo!
Then climb rightward over a convexed curved flake gear here is thin, small stacked wires back of horizontal flake move right and take second gully exit up steep but good placements mid size gear at this point.
Belay off two huge boulders set 4m back from top.

Grade: 
16 ,18
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
60m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
FFA Richard Knott, Dave Garrity 07/03/16
FFA Richard Knott Dave Garrity 07/03/16
Route Image: 
UUID: 
565c4745-4fc2-42f7-8814-1c293d44a574

Comments

Knott's picture

This offers a multipitch climb with big wall atmosphere with splendid views on good gear.

Recommended, especially when combined with one of the White Dragon wall routes.