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Mt Unicorn

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All routes are currently on the Strauchon Face.
The routes on Unicorn are harder and more exposed than those on Dilemma.
Getting off Dilemma:
The easiest way off Dilemma avoids the East Peak and rotten rock. From the West Peak scramble down the eastern edge of the Strauchon Face for 150m, then drop down a diagonal ledge system to snow 100 metres below. If the ledges are snowed up, abseil from the first notch between West and East Peaks, anchors in-situ (grade 2). Traverse across and up to a rock gendarme on the Main Divide, 100m north of Beatrice. Follow a snow ridge on the western side, passing under rock on the divide. At a rock rib that cuts westward, climb back to the divide, crossing it, and descend on the Hooker Valley side, traversing below the divide. This cross-over point is crucial. Continue along the crest over broken rock to Baker Saddle. It is also theoretically possible to rappel the Direttissima Route of Mt Dilemma. This is not recommended as it would take all day and the bolts could be difficult to find, especially at night.
Other options: If descending from Beatrice, drop onto eastern snow slopes (go south first if necessary) and continue along snow to Baker Saddle.

POINT (170.0848459 -43.62563814)
BX15 648 656
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Classical Gas 18,VI,6 1400m
Original Route 16,5
Bestial Passion 15,5+
West Ridge
Rainbow 17


Peter Dickson

I changed the alpine grading of Classical Gas from 6- to straight 6 to reflect its relative difficulty and seriousness to the RH Butress on the Nth Face of Hicks. It should always be the same alpine grade (at least) as the Hicks route.
I would like the rock crux to be listed as sustained multiple grade 17. Leave it up to the 2nd ascenionists to sort out the gradings going forward...

Thu, 01/09/2011 - 19:06 Permalink
Peter Dickson

The rock grades that Bill tended to put on his climbs are 1-2 numbers lower than how difficult the climbs actually feel.

Classical Gas is a 17 going on 18 type of climb.

Wed, 31/08/2011 - 16:29 Permalink
Alex Palman