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Original Route

First ascent
Alan & Geoff Gledhill, Jan 1973.
Located on

  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 5

As for the Direct Route of Mt Dilemma, until the shingle rib is gained. From here move right into the major couloir and up for roughly 200m (beware of rockfall), then head left up the rock, towards an enormous corner where the left (main) face begins. Climb the left hand edge of the face immediately right of the corner to gain a large flattish snowfield, 300m below the top. There are good bivvy sites here. Climb the face above via crack systems that tend left to reach the ridge 60m below the summit (crux 16). Other variations are possible at the top.