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Coffin Rock

Type
Altitude
600m
Part of

This crag has a long, but relatively unknown history. Earliest records indicate at least three lines were done back in the 70s, one of which was more than likely The Jolly Logger. A few more lines were done in the late eighties and/or early 90s, by which time the original bolt on One Bolt… had appeared. Gary Kearns and Gabriel Lincourt rediscovered the crag in 2005, and over the next couple of years, and with the help of a few others, made a concerted effort to clean up the crag. Much of the gorse was cleared, (and then cleared again using Vigilant the second time), anchor stations installed, and a number of good quality lines made climbable (…again?).
The crag is exposed to northerly winds. It is pleasantly sunny on a nice day, with reasonable shelter from southerlies.

Image
Walktime
20min
Aspect
North East
Lat/lon
POINT (172.84701651 -43.80204466)
Topo50
BY24 877 501
Access

The area is now part of Saddle Hill Reserve, which was recently acquired by DOC. Park your car clear of the gateway. Leave the dog at home.
Approach:
Just before Little River turn right and take the Okuti Valley Road. After about 4 km turn right on Reynolds Valley Road, which is a steep zig-zig shngle road. Drive up Reynolds Valley Rd. Park clear of the metal farm gate at a right hand bend. Climb over gate and walk up farm track towards the crag, which is marked as point 680.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
JB The Jolly Burglar 19 2
0
RH Removable Holds 18 3
0
Budget 17
0
The Sexton Tolled the Bell 16
0
AZ Aufwiedersehen, New Zealand 16
0
The Jolly Gravedigger 16
0
Eco Depot 17
0
Dead And Buried 15
0
KF Hand in Your Knife & Fork 19 20m 5
1.02
Francis’ route 19
0
FN The Final Nail 17 20m 3
0
FC Funeral Crasher 21 20m 4
1.02
Six Feet Under 15 1
0
Last Rites 21
0
MC Mortuary Crack 18
0
PC Pop ya Clogs 21 25m 4
0
TG The Graveyard 20 1
0
Mortician 18
0
LB Less Bang For Your Buck 18 2
0
TW Tombstone Wall 18
1.02
Probait 18 20m 6
0
The Evil Weed 17
0
The Undertaker 16
0
The Bier 17
0
LI Lost Identity 23 20m 4
1.02
TR Tomb Raider 23 4
1.02
JP The Jolly Poacher 17
2.01
DA Dead On Arrival 22 4
1.02
1B One Bolt, T(w)o Bolt 18 2
1.02
Full Moon 22 3
0
DS Dirty Little Secret 17 20m
1.02
PT Poxy Trollop 19 3
1.02
ZL Zipf's Law 20 7
0
PT Peace, Love & Tofu 18
0
JG The Jolly Gardener 17
0
GM The Grunt Machine 20
1.02
Rest on Peace 21 15m 1
0
Fade to Black 23 20m 2
2.01
RL Ride the lightening (?) 21
2.01
Creeping Death 25 20m 3
1.02
The Worms Crawl In 19 15m 2
0
HH The Happy Headpointer 19
0
The Jolly Logger Left Direct 15
0
JL The Jolly Logger 13
0
Giant Staircase 17 20m 4
0
Premature Demise 18
0
GS Jolly Good Show 16
0
On Your Bike 15
0
Cemetery Crack 17
0
Trad 101 19 1
0
The Jolly Undertaker 17
0
The Worms Crawl Out 19 12m 4
0
The Dog's Hind Leg 16
0
Monster Munch 19 4
0
The Jammy Dodger 19
1.02
Loppy 18 3
0
Lights Off 17
0
Comments
kerk

Cut lots of gorse back at the far end of crag and access path. Bring a handsaw next time you are up there and keep the crag and climbs in good condition.

Sun, 28/05/2017 - 19:31 Permalink
grubbie

The gorse continues to be a problem!! Please assist by adding loppers, secateurs, and a saw to your climbing arsenal, and help control the gorse.

Sun, 12/10/2014 - 21:17 Permalink
grubbie

Ownership has changed. The previous owner Alastair has sold the land to the crown so he doesn't need to be called anymore. I said I would drop you a line about getting his details taken off the site.

He said that the area is now a reserve which is presumably managed by DOC. But he wasn't 100% sure so it might be worth getting in touch with DOC if we have a local contact? Or perhaps the guy at the council would know.

Anyway, I guess we can consider it open access unless we hear different.

He was really pleased with how climbers had been so it shows the system works.

Information from Matt wilkinson. Thank You.

Mon, 25/03/2013 - 22:40 Permalink
Reg Measures

Phoned Alister Lamont regarding access on 19/1/2013 and as well as giving us permission to climb he informed us that ownership of the crag is in the process of being transferred to the crown and will be managed by the Canterbury conservancy (DoC). Once this change of ownership has gone through he presumes it will no longer be necessary to phone for access prior to climbing.

Sun, 20/01/2013 - 22:17 Permalink
Attribution
By Lindsay Main, copied in by Grant Piper
UUID
 
92e975dd-7c33-4c6f-9411-96a5041f5f90