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Budda Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Motutere

ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE

On the same buttress as Kookmeyer but facing north. About 10 meters up on the path at a little rocky step, look right and you'll see a rap station. This is the top of Ganesh. There's an extra bolt on the left bank to help give you strength to get to the rap station if you don't fancy leaning out. It's a 70 odd metre drop if you slip. All climbs have rap stations of 2 or more rings.

Aspect
North
Approach

ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE

To get to Kookmeyers take the main track to the summit, at the point the main track meets the saddle between the two rock outcrops. Take the left fork. Follow rough truck along ridge, as you approach the summit, the Budda Wall is on your right Kooymeyer is on the left and the Northern face is out front.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
6 6Ganesh, 17 17 50m 15
3
  • P1
  • 17
  • 50m
  • 15

A bulgy slab a style quite unique to castle rock., Can be done as one long pitch or broken in the middle by rigging a belay up on two bolts. Abseil into double bolt belay, pull you ropes and enjoy, about 15 bolts (count them on the way down).

7 7Reclining Budda, 22 22 75m
2.01

On the very summit of the pinnacle tucked down on the east side is the Top
Belay Staurion for the following 2 lines. Either abseil in making sure you
extend your rope to the edge. A 50m followed by a 30m rap will get you to
the base. Alternately take the rough climbers track down the bushy gut
between the 2 main pinnacles or bush bash your way around from the base of
Sleeping Boys.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m

Climb up slab to roof then climb through roof and climb head wall to belay.

  • P2
  • 19
  • 30m

Tending right climb slab to DBC belay.

  • P3
  • 19
  • 20m

Looks can be deceiving, difficult moves off the belay ledge then up through small roof to the DBC belay.
 Slinky Malinky, 21 21 80m 12
2.01

Now equipped with new bling plus a good clean Slinky Malinky is now a great 3
pitch line well worth the effort

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 6

A slab climbers dream. Clip the bolt then traverse out right then up to the 2nd bolt all on small holds (crux). Steady slab climbing up the wall get you to the triple bolt belay.

  • P2
  • 21
  • 40m
  • 12

A steep powerful start sequence up to the 3rd bolt (crux) is followed by 35m of delightful, thought provoking slab climbing. Double bolt belay

  • P3
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 6

Another steep start off the belay ledge gets you on the head wall. Climb the wall and right arte to the bushy ledge just below the belay. Move right around the corner and scramble up the wall to the belay.

1 1McBirney-Gillman Direct, 15 15 20m
0

Accessible by rapping in from the summit. (30m): 2 ropes needed. Start by
rapping in from the 3 bolts on the far end/middle of the left summit to the
top of the climb. You could walk down there - staying right, but tripping up
would mean goodbye cruel world. As you look at the ocean, stay on the right
side of the arete for the abseil. If you see a hanger and ring far down to
the left (as you look at the sea)- don't go there. You'll see the top of the
climb 10m down - 2 ring bolts. Change your rope to these top anchors then go
about 20 meters to the belay station situated on a small ledge part way up
the cliff. You really need to know what you are doing for this one. Don't
send beginners down just because they're doing that grade. Tie a knot in the
end of the rope please and bring.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 20m
Comments
UUID
 
fea7c257-72a6-464c-985b-7cd7dbba1b5b