McBirney-Gillman Direct

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Accessible by rapping in from the summit. (30m): 2 ropes needed. Start by rapping in from the 3 bolts on the far end/middle of the left summit to the top of the climb. You could walk down there - staying right, but tripping up would mean goodbye cruel world. As you look at the ocean, stay on the right side of the arete for the abseil. If you see a hanger and ring far down to the left (as you look at the sea)- don't go there. You'll see the top of the climb 10m down - 2 ring bolts. Change your rope to these top anchors then go about 20 meters to the belay station situated on a small ledge part way up the cliff. You really need to know what you are doing for this one. Don't send beginners down just because they're doing that grade. Tie a knot in the end of the rope please and bring.
Reference: 
1
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11520mNo
Grade: 
15
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
1
Length: 
20m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0