Merlin Wall

The face on a small buttress 20m left of Nuggets. Start in the corner or on the R arete (harder) and clip the bolts up to the DBB.

On the left side of the small black wall, where the colour changes, is this broken crack. Anchor to a large block. Easier to solo than to lead as it's steep where you need to place gear. Joe Arts 2003

short wall with a steep start, no real protection. Stu Allen 2003

A little right is this very short corner entirely on black rock, originally done on minimal pro

The next shallow corner, a metre right on the left edge of the Nugget's face. Hardest at the start, then up the corner, tending right at the top. DBB.

Facing north is a short yellow wall. Start up the blocky column on good holds, then traverse left past the first two bolts, finishing straight up at the third. Double eye-bolt belay. There's also a direct start (about 19) straight up to the 3rd bolt, with natural pro (wires).

Directly up from the start of Nuggets then the faint crack beside the insecure looking block on left. It's left of the easier line with 4 bolts (Backblocks). Grade just a guess, maybe 17?

Start a couple of m R of Nuggets follow line of bolts to finish directly and more steeply following the bolt line. The loose blocks mentioned in some Guidebooks went in the Earthquakes or subsequent "remediation work". Double bolt belay. NB This may be shown incorrectly in topos.

Down and just around the corner. Start below the bolt on the rounded arete. A foothold up left, crux to the first bolt then easy climbing following the bolts. An easier start is to begin higher on the left. Double bolt belay

Up the corner and continue directly above ignoring all bolts.

Right of the shallow un-named corner. An undercut start followed by climbing on the right side of the face. DBB.

Start up A Sharp Crack but angle out left. Keep off the grass and climb the wee corner directly. Clip the last bolt of Please Stop.

Up the crack left of A Dull Thump.

The wall right of the scrubby gully. Up to first bolt (shared by AST) then left following the bolt line and keeping out of the crack line on the left. Fun, moderate climbing with a double bolt belay back over the top. Lindsay Main

The wall left of the arete. Move right onto the arete after the bolt and climb the arete, with poor pro. Loose blocks at the top need to be treated with care. Currently DoC feel that the arete is dangerous/loose and the climb is CLOSED

From the ground, swing up the right side of the arete. Loose blocks at the top. Double ring bolt anchors

Up the corner. Adequate pro.

A good climb. Starts at a bolt below a bulge in the centre of the brown wall. Move left around the bulge and up to finish on good holds.Stay out of the corner and on the wall. DBB. Perry Logan 97

As for Basil Brush, start on the brown wall in the centre under a bolt. Move right-wards up past the second bolt (crux) and clip the 2nd bolt on Pigs Can Fly. Finish in the crack. Now has a more in line third bolt and a 2 chain anchor. Has been straightened out, with an extra bolt at the top and added the chains. It is a touch harder than 19, about 21 seems to be the consensus.

On the arete, a direct/right-hand start to Merlin the Happy Pig. Steep bouldery start to a small niche on shaky holds is the crux, then left onto the wall and finish up the crack. The 3 bolts and a slightly contrived alternate finish to the right was added later.

face to the left of Flap Flap, climb through the highest part of the overhang Richard Kimberley 97

A short, steep, right-leaning groove with one bolt. Bouldery start, intimidating finish. Pete Sykes

a thin crack on the right edge of the wall - tricky! Joe Arts 2000