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Cumulonimbus Corner

Grade
WI2,M3
Length
60m
0
Quality
1.02
First ascent
Rob Addis, Magnus Hammarshal August 2011
Located on

Obvious corner in the rock buttress on the South Face of Girdlestone. One 60m
Pitch. First up a rock corner with 2 more steps \ corners of 75% ice above.
Good rock and ice protection. Descend by traversing 60m towards the SE ridge
to gully which may be down climbed.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI2
  • Mixed M3
  • 60m

Comments
James.Sales.88518
member

Some things are only obvious if you know where you are looking! This route is located at approximately Lat: -39.29915; Long: 175.56638 at about 2510m. It is just over the ridge that runs from Girdlestone Peak to point 2156. Seems to be a route of three steps or sections. We could not climb the first section due to insufficient ice and rock protection, photo above of conditions that day (16 August). The route description is clear there is good rock and ice protection, but we found we had to make good use of pitons to build an anchor below, and the ice was not deep enough on the route for a solid ice screw that made us confident enough to complete this first section. The general feedback I had from other NZAC members is that it was out of condition. I think it will have to wait for a high snow and ice year. That way, I can imagine the first section being easily ascendable with bomber ice screws. I suppose the good rock protection comes into it in the last two sections of the route, because I don't believe that refers to the first section. Then again in a high snow and ice year, there may be limited exposed rock higher up. Therefore, I consider it an ice route more than a mixed route, but will have to confirm this by going back another year and completing it.

Sun, 19/10/2025 - 15:43 Permalink
UUID
 
16bfeaf5-7be5-46c2-8fd2-a6c285d2a96a