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From Hooker Glacier

Grade
II,2+
Length
0m
0
Quality
0
First ascent
A P Harper, R Blakiston, December 1890
Alec Graham, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, January 1905 (first crossing, west to east)
Located on
Topo ref
3.36

Ascend from the upper Hooker via a steep 150m snow/rock face direct to the saddle. If this route is cut off, then ways can be found to the right or left of Sturdee. A bolt abseil anchor can be found on the rock outcrop below and slightly right of the saddle on the Hooker side.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+

Comments
Richard Thomson
administrator climbnz_editor

Yes. I copied that from the 2018 Aoraki guide, but NZAJ says:
Messrs. Harper and Blakiston reached the divide at the head of the Hooker Glacier, but a fog on the western side prevented their seeing any distance (vol 1 no 3 April 1893, p 175)
and
HARPER’S SADDLE (8559ft.). Hooker to La Perouse Glaciers. 1st ascent A. P. Harper (A.C.) and R. Blakiston, Dec., 1890. 1st crossing W. to E., D. Teichelmann (A.C.), H. Newton (A.C.), R. S. Low (A.C.), and A. Graham (1930, p 114).

Sat, 26/07/2025 - 16:15 Permalink
Hugh Logan

I thought A.P. Harper was the first to get up on to Harper's Saddle?

Thu, 24/07/2025 - 13:10 Permalink
UUID
 
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