Skip to main content

Dragon’s Lair

Type
Altitude
3m

Simon Cox writes in 1996......... ‘many years ago, Al Mark and I were looking for new rock to climb on at Long Beach. Bashing our way through the stinging nettles, we came across an awesome tall block, that was eventually to yield the classic routes When the Fog Lifts, Married Alive and Instrument of Torture (among others). As we began to clean and bolt, we debated whether or not to clean down the scrub from the base of the cliff. I wanted to cut down a small lemonwood tree, to let the air into the crag to help it dry quicker, to free the area and to make it look more impressive. However Al, in his usual insistent manner, argued that the tree was a native and we should leave it be. So the tree stayed. Well, much time passed while sportclimbing came of age. The old bolts we had placed became rusty and very dangerous, and needed replacing. So a bit like little red hens we set about obtaining money for stainless steel bolts and hangers, and arranged for a work party with drills and generators. On the day of the work party, which incidentally only a few turned up for, I decided to rebolt the block.
By now the routes were very popular despite the awful bolts. Somehow or other I stuffed my abseil, and sailed into midair from the top of the block and plummeted downwards. Poetically, I ploughed into the lemonwood. The tree slowed my fall and saved my life.
Recently, I was out at the beach again, and went to attempt Married Alive to shake out some cobwebs and see whether or not I was totally past it. At the bottom of the route, I was disappointed to see that someone had broken down one half of the lemonwood tree, clearly making room at the bottom of the climb. The magic lemonwood tree, which had been saved from the destruction of rockclimbers and had mysteriously repayed the favour, now stands rather broken and sad. Although I’m not a superstitious person, I can’t help worrying just how mystical this tree may be. Is an accident imminent for the person responsible for its destruction ?’
Simon and Al might have ‘discovered’ the Lair , but Phil de Joux put up the first routes, commencing with the classic When the Fog Lifts. Watch out for stinging nettles.

Image
Aspect
East
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Noodle, 12 12 10m 4
0

up the track left around the corner is a short pleasant slab


  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • 4

 Al Dente, 18 18 15m 5
0

start up Noodle and step out right trusting your toes to stick the last moves


  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 5

1 1Married Alive, 24 24 11m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 11m
  • 4
  • Trad

From arete at L of face, strenuously hand traverse R and up on to the ledge. Finish up the Arms Race V groove.


2 2Instrument of Torture, 26 26 12m 4
2.01

  • P1
  • 26
  • 12m
  • 4
  • Trad

S for Andy Milne, who bolted the upper face and slaved away on it for a couple of months before giving it to Dave Fearnley. Start as for Married Alive. Continue straight up face above 2nd bolt of Married Alive and out to arete.


3 3Satan's Sidepull, 29 29 11m 2
0

  • P1
  • 29
  • 11m
  • 2
  • Trad

Up the centre of the wall below the Arms Race V groove. Being really tall and able to crimp on small sloping edges would be helpful. Go to it.


4 4Now That the Love Has Gone, 24 24 11m 1
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 11m
  • 1
  • Trad

Bouldery start 2m L of When the Fog Lifts and directly up the face, clipping any convenient bolts. Carry on past the horizontal break (CD) to mantle finish just R of V groove.


5 5When the Fog Lifts, 18 18 10m 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 18
  • 10m
  • 3
  • Trad

This great little arete keeps on coming at you. Dyno or use the secret hold to get past the first bolt. The vertically challenged can add a grade. Take pro for the top crack to protect the final mantle.


6 6Arms Race, 19 19 11m 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 11m
  • 2
  • Trad

Clean the V groove first, then climb the route - it’s worth it. Clip the last bolt of When the Fog Lifts, retreat to the ledge, move up and L past a final bolt to the crack where it opens into a V (interesting moves here!). Good pro.


7 7Smug with Semen, 22 22 9m 1
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 9m
  • 1
  • Trad

A bit squalid. Clip the bolt on the wall R of When the Fog Lifts arete, drop down, then up to the R. Merits rebolting and cleaning.


Comments
s8piral

La Grande Bouffe, Bulimic's Picnic, and Teddy Bears Picnic have all been updated to reflect their current, rebolted status as sport climbs, with information supplied by Calum Hudson.

Fri, 04/01/2013 - 21:39 Permalink
cvaessen
content_editor

In reply to by s8piral

La Grande Bouffe, Bulimic's Picnic, and Teddy Bears Picnic have now been moved to the Teddy Bears Picnic Wall

Fri, 16/02/2024 - 10:19 Permalink
Attribution
Dave Brash
UUID
 
76293dc6-c7a8-4b39-aaa8-fa36f4b0f45a