From Whymper Hut follow the stream down to its junction with the stream draining Pt 1572 metres.
Alternatively, access this stream directly from the Whataroa River. Ascend this stream then veer north
over a tussock shoulder, keeping up towards the base of bluffs, and continue across gullies at about
the same altitude (approx 1280–1320 metres) to a narrow snow gully draining Pt 2142 metres. A route
needs to be found from here up a rocky pitch to the snowfield under Callery Saddle and is the crux.
To approach the Callery River from Callery Saddle, sidle down to the left, reaching a gully at
I35 945498 / BX16 845 882. Sidle out onto a shoulder on the true left of this gully and descend scree and
boulders to the Callery Valley floor. Allow a day and expect difficulty of about grade 1+.
W G Lowe, E P Hillary, H E Riddiford, E M Cotter and W B Beaven, 30 December 1950. Note that
NZAJ, no 20, p 137 mentions a ‘col between Wataroa and Callery Rivers, first crossing, T C Fyfe and
prospecting party, 1932.’