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|CS||From Camp Saddle||2+||
At Camp Saddle climb the 20m bluff directly above by gaining access immediately left of a chute, climbing good ledges, then traversing left to the corner of the bluff. Move directly up an exposed solid rock column overlooking the Wilberg Camp Saddle slopes. Ascend snowslopes to beneath the small glacier here, traverse left and ascend steeper slopes to the snowfield above. Another steepish snowslope leads to a narrow saddle between the false and main peak. About 100m remains of easy rock ridge to the summit.
first ascent feb/mar 1934 by WH and RJ Scott, from a camp on the Clarke Glacier, via Wilberg Glacier and Camp Saddle
A variation from the upper snowfield east of Dan Peak itself is the steep rocky East Ridge on the crest of the Lord Range itself. However, the rock is 'deteriorated'. This was used as a descent route back to the upper snowfield by
Jack Pattle and Trevor W James, 28th Feb 1953.
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
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