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Lord Range Traverse

Grade
III,3+
Length
0m
0
Quality
0
First ascent
Ruari Macfarlane, April 2022
Located on

From a camp near pk 1994, traverse NE on glaciers, gaining the ridge at the pk 2140 -2275 col. Generally follow the ridge on loose rock from here to Dan Peak. Mainly scrambling with some hard scrambling/low-grade rockclimbing. The cruxes are the looseness of the rock, and an abseil (length not remembered - a 60m rope was carried) into the notch / col either before 2293 or Dan Peak. Descend via Camp saddle route, follow downvalley Westward towards Poker Gully, but then take the couloir up towards pt 1983, and slowly back to camp on broken schist boulders.

Water is scarce and travel is slow in the rocky Southern parts of the range - shattered schist boulderfields and rifts predominate. A full traverse of the range, carrying on Northwards of Dan Peak, remains undone, but the rock quality is offputting. A winter traverse, and/or traversing E-W (although the gendarme near .2293 a major obstacle; very steep) might be considered.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+

Comments
UUID
 
ee8859a4-45d6-41bf-8b8a-249bc513f42b