Newton Pk

(4 routes)

Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana

-43.316720120000, 170.716471840000
I35 248 631
BW17 148 015
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
GA From Garden of Allah 1+
Along John Pascoe Ridge from Mt Tyndall Grade 1+ Easy snow slopes provide access along the Main Divide from the upper Garden of Allah, bypassing Snowy Peak. From the col between Tyndall and Newton a snow ridge with a schrund and short scramble at the end leads to the summit. The schrund can cause parties problems and at times cut access.
The Tears of Allah 3 21 500m
This stunning 500m rock route rising from the Garden of Allah has great rock and pro on the roped pitches, is safe and easily rapped. Strongly recommended by the first ascentionists. The climb entails access via an apron on the RH side to a large ledge before a full pitch of superb 18. Above this a half pitch on easy ground leads to scrambling to the superb headwall pitches (16 & 18). A short step down to another wall not visible from below accesses the crux pitch of 21 (watch the loose blocks at the crux). Above this, stunning easy pitches (15 & 15) lead to a final scramble to the summit. To descend rap to the base of the crux pitch and scramble toward the easy side and down across easier ground continuing to the top of the first pitch and rap back to the ledge and down climb back to the snow.
Jamie Vinton-Boot, Guy McKinnon April 2008
Forbidden Apples IV 4+ 16 400m
wire representing trad
"Every rock climb in the universe is attracted to every other rock climb with a force that is directly proportional to the product of their aesthetic mass and inversely proportional to the square of the distance between them" - Isaac Newton. Forbidden Apples starts up obvious corner between the double buttress, stepping left into groove below loose hanging corner, then follows the most direct weakness. The crux (16) consists of lesser-quality rock beneath the large overhang. Trend left to cross a snow slope which leads to easier but loose scrambling. Descended via GA route.
George Loomes, Olivia Truax, Sam Waetford, Michael Eatson - 25th December 2019.
South Face. 2
A diagonal snow climb from the Garden of Eden up crevassed snowslopes that vary considerably and are often cut off later in the season. There are some big slots up here. Reach the ridge between Newton and Tyndall from which both peaks are accessible. The first ascent went all the way up the Colin Campbell Glacier from the Frances Valley to the Garden of Eden, then climbed the snowy south face of Tyndall before traversing to Newton Pk.
LK Wilson, HW Cormack, Dec 1933.
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club