Camera Cove

(7 routes)

A photogenic spot which saw the demise of John's camera when it fell into a pool of seawater. Near where the descent rope finishes is a black and gold wall well supplied with holds. The climbs are described left to right as you face the crag (and south). All have double bolt anchors.

Walk time: 
45 min

Camera Cove is about 45 minutes walk from the car park but has enough routes to be worth the effort. Once past the gate and all of the warnings, follow the main track to the cut trail which branches left just before the main cliffs. Follow this trail over a double col marked by rimu trees and then wind back towards the coast until a few stunted pines appear. If you arrive at a major stream (Bromielaw Creek) you have gone about 50m too far. There is a track to the right, cut through gorse and flax, which comes to a fixed rope. Either swarm down this or abseil from a bolt on a rock prow about 20m on from the rope. Up the knotted rope is your way out.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Bananas in Pyjamas 17
Start up slanting crack or pull onto the wall from the low block. Pro is possible before the first bolt then good holds to near the top.
John Entwisle and Nick Cradock June 2011
Disdain Corner 17
wire representing trad
Off-width to undercut layback crack.
John Entwisle and Nick Cradock June 2011
Cradock Corner 17
1bolts wire representing trad
Stepped corner capped by a small roof with a balancy finish.
Nick Cradock June 2011
Trust Me I'm a Rat 21
5bolts wire representing trad
Cracked wall just R of CC. A cam and small wires protect committing moves to a bolt or stick clip it, then cams to 4 bolts through the roof to a tricky finish to CC DBA.
John Entwisle June 2011
Spume 19
wire representing trad
Designer 'and jams to exposed finish.
Murray Ball June 2011
Old Fart's Fun 17
2bolts wire representing trad
Obvious gully feature with a chimney on the L and an off-width on the R. Bridge around the chimney using a thin crack on the L wall for pro. At the ledge climb the R hand stemming corner so avoiding potentially loose blocks on the L, then up the wall with 2 bolts.
John Entwisle and Murray Ball June 2011
Becalmed 15
4bolts wire representing trad
Aesthetic seaside arete.
Nick Cradock June 2011.
John Entwisle