Paradise (right)

(8 routes)

The wall to the right side of the main crag and bivy.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
100m
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
20 mins
Access: 

All of the following climbs between the campsite bivy and the next sandy overhang to the right are accessed via the grass slope from the right.
The climbs between PB & Blimp Redemption all start up PB, the wide crack just left of the sandy overhang.

Lat/Lon: 
-42.101262000000, 171.368406000000
NZMS260: 
K30 750 993
Topo50: 
BS19 651 377
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Smigglepuss 19 21m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Hidden up in the trees just after jumping over the small ditch. Start off the tree and jump into the crack (literally if you wish) and work your way up this thrutchy line and smiggle your way into the slightly overhanging off-width section protected by 2 bolts. Gear to #3 Camalot.
Neil Silverwood, 2015
2 Specist 25 26m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Climb Smigglepuss to the ledge, whacking in a bunch of dirty ol' cams then put on your sport booties and dance out onto the right face. Techy and crimpy with a dramatic finish.Troy gives it 8 out of 3 stars and says 'soft 25' which translates to a pretty good grade 26 for the rest of us. Only needs a handful of cams #.75 – 3.
Troy Mattingley, 2015
3 PB 16 12m
0
2bolts
Debated whether it stands for 'peanut butter' or 'pointless but necessary', a dirty little pitch up the jug infested crack below the rata tree that gives access to the following climbs on the ledge above.
Neil Warrington, 2015
4 Teardrops From Space 21 36m
0
13bolts
Longer is always better. Climb PB, but step left before getting to the ledge, clip a bolt and mantle like you mean it. Veer left to navigate your way through brokenness to the marathon of gray goodness above. Lower off to PB's ledge and abseil twice unless you've got an extra-long rope.
Neil Warrington, 2015
5 At a Pinch 18 26m
0
11bolts
Climb PB's crack to the ledge, make sure your belayer is paying attention and pull through some hardish moves to get up into the corner and into a whole new world of funk and squeezy weirdness that feels more like caving than climbing. Makes a nice short multi-pitch if you decide to split it up by stopping on PB's ledge
Heidi Godfrey, 2015
6 Man on Wire 24 24m
0
8bolts
This prize line speaks for itself. Excellent climbing in an outstanding position. Starts from PB's ledge, belay from the double bolt anchor, clip the high bolt on the slab before venturing out to the shallow crack at the arête. The start is apparently closer to 25/26 no matter how you do it.
Zac Orme, 2015
7 Blimp Redemption 20 20m
0
7bolts
This climb started out like an onion; covered in an unappealing brown and yellow skin, but after a few days of scrubbing the outer layers came off and left this tear streamer of a route. Originally climbed on gear, it's now fully bolted for safety and mental health reasons.
Kat Rast, 2015
9 Waiting for a Sunny Day (Prj) 10m
0
4bolts
The Love Shack is the furthest right sandy overhang and the first one you arrive at when walking up the trail from the car park. The following climb is through the overhang above The Love Shack
Equipped by Michael Cartwright, 2015
Attribution: 
Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

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