Paradise (right)

Type

Sector

Altitude

100m

Part of

Paradise Crags (Main crag or left side)

The wall to the right side of the main crag and bivy.

Walktime

20 mins

Aspect

North

Lat/lon

POINT (171.368406 -42.101262)

Topo50

BS19 651 377

Approach

All of the following climbs between the campsite bivy and the next sandy overhang to the right are accessed via the grass slope from the right.
The climbs between PB & Blimp Redemption all start up PB, the wide crack just left of the sandy overhang.

Accessed from

Bullock Creek

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Smigglepuss, 19	19	21m	2	0
P1 19 21m 2 Trad Hidden up in the trees just after jumping over the small ditch. Start off the tree and jump into the crack (literally if you wish) and work your way up this thrutchy line and smiggle your way into the slightly overhanging off-width section protected by 2 bolts. Gear to #3 Camalot.
2	2Specist, 25	25	26m	5	0
P1 25 26m 5 Trad Climb Smigglepuss to the ledge, whacking in a bunch of dirty ol' cams then put on your sport booties and dance out onto the right face. Techy and crimpy with a dramatic finish.Troy gives it 8 out of 3 stars and says 'soft 25' which translates to a pretty good grade 26 for the rest of us. Only needs a handful of cams #.75 – 3.
3	3PB, 16	16	12m	2	0
P1 16 12m 2 Debated whether it stands for 'peanut butter' or 'pointless but necessary', a dirty little pitch up the jug infested crack below the rata tree that gives access to the following climbs on the ledge above.
4	4Teardrops From Space, 21	21	36m	13	0
P1 21 36m 13 Longer is always better. Climb PB, but step left before getting to the ledge, clip a bolt and mantle like you mean it. Veer left to navigate your way through brokenness to the marathon of gray goodness above. Lower off to PB's ledge and abseil twice unless you've got an extra-long rope.
5	5At a Pinch, 18	18	26m	11	0
P1 18 26m 11 Climb PB's crack to the ledge, make sure your belayer is paying attention and pull through some hardish moves to get up into the corner and into a whole new world of funk and squeezy weirdness that feels more like caving than climbing. Makes a nice short multi-pitch if you decide to split it up by stopping on PB's ledge
6	6Man on Wire, 24	24	24m	8	0
P1 24 24m 8 This prize line speaks for itself. Excellent climbing in an outstanding position. Starts from PB's ledge, belay from the double bolt anchor, clip the high bolt on the slab before venturing out to the shallow crack at the arête. The start is apparently closer to 25/26 no matter how you do it.
7	7Blimp Redemption, 20	20	20m	7	0
P1 20 20m 7 This climb started out like an onion; covered in an unappealing brown and yellow skin, but after a few days of scrubbing the outer layers came off and left this tear streamer of a route. Originally climbed on gear, it's now fully bolted for safety and mental health reasons.
9	9Waiting for a Sunny Day (Prj)		10m	4	0
The Love Shack is the furthest right sandy overhang and the first one you arrive at when walking up the trail from the car park. The following climb is through the overhang above The Love Shack P1 10m 4 Starts left of the overhang with a leap to the large hollow sounding flake (don't belay below this). The remainder is self explanatory. Always dry.

Comments

Attribution

Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

UUID

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