Paradise Crags (Main crag or left side)

(29 routes)

Large area of low angle rock, around 30m high.
The story behind Paradise: In mid 2014 Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington applied for funding from Sport NZ. Every second year grants are given out to New Zealanders doing innovative adventures around the globe. Perhaps due to a serious lack of applications Sport NZ awarded the pair a grant for route development at Bullock Creek. Warrington and Silverwood had promised to put up 30 routes in 30 days, complete a guide book, and name their first born 'Sport NZ'.
Paradise Bivy was used as advanced base camp and almost all the routes at this crag were created during January 2015. Exhaustion, rain and frustration with living in the dirt slowed progress to a crawl and by half way through the month they only had 10 climbs completed.
A post on social media promising free bolts, food and a can of double brown brought in reinforcements in the form of a few more keen route developers. On day 29 of the trip the 30th climb went up. The final tally for the month was 33 new climbs (37 pitches).

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
100m
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
20 mins
Access: 

Park at 1.9km down Bullock Creek Road from SH6 on one of the several grassy parking spots on the right-hand side. Walk 60m further along the road from the last parking spot looking for a marked track leading down to the creek. Cross the creek and follow the trail uphill for 20 minutes before turning upriver underneath the cliffs.
Access to the Cuckoo's Nest, is by following the trail to the White Wall of Goodness and turn right after the steep slope. Scramble up a tape handline.
Follow the goat trail along, dipping back into the bush occasionally to a spacious bivy cave.
The Climbs from " Little Timmy the Guzzberry" to " Just Another Day" are accessed up the grassy slope just left out of the bivy.

Lat/Lon: 
-42.101099000000, 171.368624000000
NZMS260: 
K30 751 994
Topo50: 
BS19 651 377
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Every Tear a Waterfall 20 18m
0
7bolts
A delightful number especially if you have a knack for finding hidden holds. Starts just before dropping right into the gully enroute to the Cuckoo's Nest.
Michael Cartwright, 2015
2 A Quarter to Sunshine 19 22m
1.02
10bolts
Starts on the Cuckoo's Nest, as well as "One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest" & " Chocolate X's" Access by following the trail to the White Wall of Goodness and turn right after the steep slope. Scramble up a tape handline.
Neil Warrington 2014
3 One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest 22 22m
0
7bolts
Starts off the pillar moving left. A naughty little crux leads to some grade 18/19 climbing above, finishing in a fine position on the small arĂȘte.
Neil Warrington, 2014
4 Chocolate X's 17 23m
0
9bolts
Chimney fiesta! Just like vegemite, don't knock it till you've tried it. Jump off right from the pillar and follow the friendly line of bolts to the slab above
Christine Bolland 2014
5 Little Timmy the Guzzberry 19 20m
0
7bolts
The following 7 climbs are accessed up the grassy slope just left out of the bivy.
Neil Warrington, 2015
6 Black Coffee 18 ,19 42m
0
15bolts
No better way to wake yourself up in the morning. Starts on the right side of the dodgy looking rock.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11820m7No
  Better than it looks and gets even better higher up. Psych yourself up for the crux at the small roof
21922m8No
 Step right to a bolt, ignoring the instantaneous exposure and storm upwards to the arĂȘte and beyond. Finish up via the last 2 bolts of Chocolate X's.
Neil Warrington, Neil Silverwood, 2015
7 Bent 18 13m
0
5bolts
Ballerina shoes might be more appropriate for the crux on this climb. Up the slab past some uber delicate moves at the 2nd bolt and then disappear off left behind the tree to the anchor.
Lauren Kelley, 2015
8 Meanderthal 18 20m
0
8bolts
The fairly well vegetated crack at the highpoint in the gully (the bolts just left of the crack). Bridge up, stepping left gently onto the slab, up past the tree then its time to use your imagination to get back into the crack. Bridge like a starfish all the way to the top.
Neil Silverwood, Heidi Godfrey, 2015
9 Famous People Aren't so Famous 23 28m
0
11bolts
A tricky number that keeps you on your toes right to the top. Start up Meanderthal's crack, clip the bolt on the right wall, and head for the sandy scoop. From here it's pretty self-explanatory, pre-crimp your fingers and follow the bolts. Can be helpful to sling the 4th and 6th bolt.
Neil Warrington, 2015
10 Assisted Suicide 19 30m
2.01
wire representing trad
The crack hidden behind the kawakawa trees. Imagine finding a piece of gold whilst out scouring the beach for greenstone. That's how Silverwood must have felt finding this gem. Sustained and terrifying climbing from start to finish, crux hits you at 7m, protected by good cams. A standard rack just cuts it, and a 00 micro cam up top will keep your shorts dry.
Neil Silverwood, 2015
11 Just Another Day 22 22m
0
9bolts
Recommended for both the quality of climb and for the bonus option of belaying from your sleeping bag. Start on the grass just left of the bivy with rings for its bottom two bolts.
Michael Cartwright, 2015
Attribution: 
Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Places

Type Title Edit link
Wall White Wall of Goodness (7 routes)
Wall Paradise (right) (8 routes)
Wall Kiki Corner (3 routes)