Machu Picchu is arguably the best crag in Bullock Creek if you are the type of person that: • enjoys easy-moderate multi-pitch climbing on naturally clean rock • likes watching the sunset over the ocean from a kushy ledge after your climb • can't stand climbing on the same type of rock for two pitches in a row • wants a steep and gnarly approach through some fine west coast bush
: Drive up Bullock Creek Road and park at a small grassy parking spot on the right-hand side with a large log (1.8km from SH6). Walk back down the road 10m and take a steep gravel bank down to the creek. Cross using a rock bridge and follow the flagging tape through thick bush up a steep and sometimes slippery track to the base of the cliffs. Climbs are accessed via a short handline onto a ledge located 30m right of where the trail meets the rock.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Dark and Ominous, 18 | 18 | 15m | 5 |
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Starts on a low angled slab and ascends the arete above. |
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| 2 | 2Sweet Jane, Jane Cuts loose, 18 | 18 | 54m | 9 |
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Climb up the middle of the main face to a DBA beneath a large roof.
From the DBA traverse left to the Arete. Then up right to a 2nd DBA.
This pitch was added 5 years after the lower two. Climb left of the DBA. Clip 3 bolts and reach for a jug out right. Follow the line of bolts through super featured rock to an atmospheric belay station. Wild. |
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| 3 | 3Crown of Thorns, 20 | 20 | 30m | 10 |
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Climb up the right hand side of the lower face. Step onto the super exposed wall above a square cut roof. Climb through the crux low down on the wavy wall. Shares a DBA with the second pitch of Sweet Jane.
Closed project. |
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The 2nd DBA on Sweet Jane do not seem safe at the moment, the bolts could be wiggled within the rock. May be worth redoing?
Track remarked and trimmed - June 2014