Machu Picchu

(3 routes)

Machu Picchu is arguably the best crag in Bullock Creek if you are the type of person that: • enjoys easy-moderate multi-pitch climbing on naturally clean rock • likes watching the sunset over the ocean from a kushy ledge after your climb • can't stand climbing on the same type of rock for two pitches in a row • wants a steep and gnarly approach through some fine west coast bush

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
100m
Aspect: 
North East
Walk time: 
30 mins
Access: 

: Drive up Bullock Creek Road and park at a small grassy parking spot on the right-hand side with a large log (1.8km from SH6). Walk back down the road 10m and take a steep gravel bank down to the creek. Cross using a rock bridge and follow the flagging tape through thick bush up a steep and sometimes slippery track to the base of the cliffs. Climbs are accessed via a short handline onto a ledge located 30m right of where the trail meets the rock.

Lat/Lon: 
-42.104203000000, 171.364387000000
NZMS260: 
K30 747 990
Topo50: 
BS19 648 374
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Dark and Ominous 18 15m
1.02
5bolts
Starts on a low angled slab and ascends the arete above.
Aaron Gillespie
2 Sweet Jane, Jane Cuts loose 16 ,16 ,18 54m
1.02
21bolts
Climb up the middle of the main face to a DBA beneath a large roof.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11615m7No
 Climb up the middle of the main face to a DBA beneath a large roof.
21615m5No
 From the DBA traverse left to the Arete. Then up right to a 2nd DBA.
31824m9No
 This pitch was added 5 years after the lower two. Climb right of the DBA. Clip 3 bolts and reach for a jug out right. Follow the line of bolts through super featured rock to an atmospheric belay station. Wild.
Neil Silverwood, 2009
3 Crown of Thorns 20 , 30m
1.02
10bolts
Climb up the right hand side of the lower face. Step onto the super exposed wall above a square cut roof. Climb through the crux low down on the wavy wall. Shares a DBA with the second pitch of Sweet Jane.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12030m10No
 Climb up the right hand side of the lower face. Step onto the super exposed wall above a square cut roof. Climb through the crux low down on the wavy wall. Shares a DBA with the second pitch of Sweet Jane.
20mNo
 Closed project.
Neil Silverwood, 2014
Attribution: 
Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

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Comments

The 2nd DBA on Sweet Jane do not seem safe at the moment, the bolts could be wiggled within the rock. May be worth redoing?

Track remarked and trimmed - June 2014