Machu Picchu is arguably the best crag in Bullock Creek if you are the type of person that: • enjoys easy-moderate multi-pitch climbing on naturally clean rock • likes watching the sunset over the ocean from a kushy ledge after your climb • can't stand climbing on the same type of rock for two pitches in a row • wants a steep and gnarly approach through some fine west coast bush
Image
Walktime
30 mins
Aspect
North East
Lat/lon
POINT (171.364387 -42.104203)
Topo50
BS19 648 374
Approach
: Drive up Bullock Creek Road and park at a small grassy parking spot on the right-hand side with a large log (1.8km from SH6). Walk back down the road 10m and take a steep gravel bank down to the creek. Cross using a rock bridge and follow the flagging tape through thick bush up a steep and sometimes slippery track to the base of the cliffs. Climbs are accessed via a short handline onto a ledge located 30m right of where the trail meets the rock.
Climb up the middle of the main face to a DBA beneath a large roof.
P2
16
15m
5
From the DBA traverse left to the Arete. Then up right to a 2nd DBA.
P3
18
24m
9
This pitch was added 5 years after the lower two. Climb left of the DBA. Clip 3 bolts and reach for a jug out right. Follow the line of bolts through super featured rock to an atmospheric belay station. Wild.
Climb up the right hand side of the lower face. Step onto the super exposed wall above a square cut roof. Climb through the crux low down on the wavy wall. Shares a DBA with the second pitch of Sweet Jane.
P2
Closed project.
Comments
djb500
The 2nd DBA on Sweet Jane do not seem safe at the moment, the bolts could be wiggled within the rock. May be worth redoing?
Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/
The 2nd DBA on Sweet Jane do not seem safe at the moment, the bolts could be wiggled within the rock. May be worth redoing?
Track remarked and trimmed - June 2014