Mt Kensington

(5 routes)

There are also some significant unclimbed rock ribs off the North Ridge into both the Poerua and Alpheus Creek that would be worth investigating.

-43.290820060000, 170.638553890000
I35 184 658
BW17 084 042
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
West from Angel Col, (Kensington to The Great Unknown)
The high snow plateau between Mts Hulka and Farrar can be accessed up crevassed snowslopes from Angel Col, but later in the season this route can get cut off. Alternatively, the Arethusa can be used for access, but this can get very difficult too. However, once on this plateau, Farrar, Hulka and Kensington are readily approached. Other peaks and cols in this block are accessible from the western end of the Garden of Eden, once referred to as the Western Lawn. Travel along this western section of the Garden of Eden can sometimes be a bit tight now under pt 2020m, where crevasses below and bits of ice debris from above sometimes meet, but it always remains travellable.
SR South Ridge, from Iceland Col. 2
Early in the season, this can be an easy snow climb from Iceland Col, but later on schrunds can increase difficulties. Alternatively, from the upper Arethusa, snowslopes lead up onto the east ridge which can be followed to the summit. Access up the Arethusa Icefall is getting increasingly difficult.
JD Pascoe, AF Pearson, HA McDowall, HM Sweeney, 28th Dec 1935
ER East Ridge 2
A mix of rock and snow travel. The east ridge is easily approached from the upper Arethusa Glacier and travel on the upper section straight forward.
Alan Stevens, John Fabian, and Graham Craig, 29th December 1958.
WR West Ridge. 2+
From the Poerua-Barlow saddle (between pts 1576m and 1557m), easy walking on the ridge leads to about the 1900m contour where the ridge becomes razorbacked. The first ascent party climbed most of this before gaining a snow couloir and ascending that through to the summit.
Gordon Howitt, Alan Gill, Dec 1962.
NR North Ridge 3
From the North Poerua Glacier sidle east past pt 2177m to the col under the buttress dividing Alpheus Creek from the South Poerua, or else reach here from Alpheus Creek itself. Snow gullies lead to the col from both sides in early summer, but watch for stonefall, especially on the Poeroa side. Above the col, the most difficult climbing is in the first 50m on sometimes loose and sometimes firm schist. The first ascent route climbed directly from the col, turning slabby bluffs a short way up out to climbers left in a shallow flaky corner and continued more or less directly up to the top of the buttress. Above, pt 2332m can be bypassed closeby on snow to the east. A snow arete then leads to the last series of steps. These have reasonable rock, but are still demanding and an alternative is to sidle on snowslopes to the west, returning directly to the summit.
G Spearpoint, L Duff, Dec 1974
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club