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Sharon Stone

Type
Part of

Long moderate routes on excellent pocketed rock make this a popular destination. A 60m rope and about 14 quickdraws are required for many of the routes, although you’ll still find enough to keep you busy with a shorter rope and fewer draws.

Image
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
30 min
Approach

From the Diamond Lake car park, take the Rocky Mountain track to the boardwalk with multiple sets of stairs. Find the cairn marking the access track leading to the base of the crag: walk uphill about 150m through bush, passing some short bluffs along the way.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Athletic Blonde, 19 19 30m 11
1.02

Nice face climbing with a challenging crux.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 11

2 2Total Recall, 19 19 29m 11
1.02

Up the face.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 29m
  • 11

3 3Who’s Bunny?, 20 20 30m 14
2.01

A searing classic, right to the top. Starts from the grassy ledge.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 14

4 4Single Malt, 18 18 30m 13
2.01

From the grassy ledge, sustained climbing all the way. The anchor is shared with Who’s Bunny?


  • P1
  • 18
  • 30m
  • 13

5 5Basic Instinct, 19 19 30m 11
1.02

Turn the steep bulge, then crank a long face climb with some pump factor.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 11

6 6Hearts & Minds, 21 21 30m 11
2.01

P1: (21) Steep sequential face climbing up a right-trending flake. P2: (19) Now climb the steep bulge.


  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 11

7 7Need to Unwind, 23 23 20m 7
3

Steep to the awkward mantleshelf, then angle up ‘n right on delicate moves to the arête.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 7

8 8Forgive and Forget, 24 24 18m 9
1.02

A direct start to Need to Unwind.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 18m
  • 9

9 9Ode to the Golden Pelt, 26 26 20m 5
1.02

Start Need to Unwind, but from the ledge move up on ultra-thin moves to the Hearts & Minds anchor.


  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 5

10 10Wind Me Up, 25 25 20m 7
1.02

Start Need to Unwind, then straight up after the fifth bolt to the Chugnuts anchor.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • 7

11 11Chugnuts, 18 18 15m 6
1.02

Climb the arête and groove above Ode to the Golden Pelt. Can be accessed most easily via Bit on the Side.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 6

12 12Fuck Bunny Arête, 18 18 15m 5
2.01

Myxomatosis anyone? A steep corner crack system. Turn the staunch overhang out right.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 5

13 13Bit on the Side, 16 16 15m 5
1.02

The right-most route angles up and left on the slab above the shallow corner.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • 5

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Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
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