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Rumour Mill Right

Type
Sector
Part of
Diamond Lake

A high – and wide and bushy – cliff with a number of quality long routes. The rock quality is good and it is well textured. This crag is best visited during the warmest and driest weeks of summer. At other times it can be prone to water seepage.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
25 min
Approach

From the Diamond Lake car park, walk the Rocky Mountain track to the first sharp bend. Head straight up a grassy hill and on to the ridge, then left towards the small rock buttress and up a gully, crossing a fence. From the top of the gully, cross a second fence and stay on the ridge heading for the right side of the cliff. Enter bush below the cliff just above a small swamp.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1He Said She Said, 27 27 15m 5
2.01

P1: (17, 10m, 5 bolts) Up and left on some nice bluish limestone-style holds to anchor below roof. P2: (27, 5m, 3 bolts) Tackle hard roof and on to slab.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 15m
  • 5
2 2Milestone Road, 22 22 35m 5
1.02

Starts below and left of He Said She Said, crossing it before the first belay. Hand to finger size crack through bulges. A 60m rope will get you to the ground, or use in situ anchors.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 35m
  • 5
  • Trad
3 3Dirty Little Secret, 15 15 15m 8
1.02

Great features on excellent rock.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 8
4 4Talk of the Town, 18 18 15m 7
2.01

A good one to warm up on. Crimps and edges on great rock.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 7
5 5Lies and Innuendo, 19 19 15m 8
1.02

It's all true! Great varied climbing up the wall.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 8
6 6Slander and Lies, 17 17
2.01

The good-looking crack line.

  • P1
  • 17
  • m
  • Trad
7 7Word on the Street, 18 18 40m 12
2.01

Obvious white corner to belay then up black corner and face.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 40m
  • 12
8 8Credit Crunch, 19 19 40m 12
2.01

A long, thin face climb up black rock, turning a bulge and an overlap.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 40m
  • 12
9 9Group Hug, 18 18 40m 14
2.01

Can be climbed in 2–3 pitches. Climbs the face/arete at the right end of the wall, joining Credit Crunch for a few bolts before drifting back right across the slab and up to belay ledge. Continue up and left to the top of the cliff.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 40m
  • 14
10 10Bitter Truth, 26 26 20m 7
2.01

Start up Group Hug then monkey out to the steep arête.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 7
11 11Fifty Not Out, 25 25 10m 6
3

Great route on steep white rock.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 10m
  • 6
12 12Losing Streak, 20 20 25m 14
0

The steep white steak is hard to miss. On the way up, turn two roofs, first left then right.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 14
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
b5ac7099-9664-4f74-8da8-179deff41116