A high – and wide and bushy – cliff with a number of quality long routes. The rock quality is good and it is well textured. This crag is best visited during the warmest and driest weeks of summer. At other times it can be prone to water seepage.
From the Diamond Lake car park, walk the Rocky Mountain track to the first sharp bend. Head straight up a grassy hill and on to the ridge, then left towards the small rock buttress and up a gully, crossing a fence. From the top of the gully, cross a second fence and stay on the ridge heading for the right side of the cliff. Enter bush below the cliff just above a small swamp.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Gimpys, 17 | 17 | 10m | 4 | |||
The left-most climb in the gully.
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2 | 2Rodeo, 22 | 22 | 10m | 5 | |||
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3 | 3Power Generation, 24 | 24 | 12m | ||||
Start up the arête, then pull around to the left.
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4 | 4Final Fantasy, 28 | 28 | 28m | ||||
Start up Eight Hour Rule but head left after the 2nd bolt.
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5 | 5Eight Hour Rule, 25 | 25 | 28m | 12 | |||
Choice. A powerful start with lots of climbing to follow. Could be the steepest 25 in Wānaka.
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6 | 6This One’s for You Glen, 21 | 21 | 22m | 9 | |||
A right-angling crack line.
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7 | 7Cop Out, 21 | 21 | 20m | 10 | |||
Easier start to This One’s for You Glen.
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8 | 8Stair Case, 19 | 19 | 20m | 10 | |||
The big holds give good climbing.
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9 | 9Spray, 23 | 23 | 20m | ||||
Another right-leaning crack line up, to the long galvanised chain.
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10 | 10Crescendo, 25 | 25 | 14m | 5 | |||
The rad steep face. Worth coming up for!
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