A high – and wide and bushy – cliff with a number of quality long routes. The rock quality is good and it is well textured. This crag is best visited during the warmest and driest weeks of summer. At other times it can be prone to water seepage.
From the Diamond Lake car park, walk the Rocky Mountain track to the first sharp bend. Head straight up a grassy hill and on to the ridge, then left towards the small rock buttress and up a gully, crossing a fence. From the top of the gully, cross a second fence and stay on the ridge heading for the right side of the cliff. Enter bush below the cliff just above a small swamp.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Tuatara, 22 | 22 | 15m | 12 |
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P1: (22) Up the middle of the lovely black face. P2: (21) A dirty slab.
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| 2 | 2Hops and Glory, 21 | 21 | 40m | 5 |
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Up a faint arête on dirty rock to belay below the roof.
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| 3 | 3Tightlipped, 19 | 19 | 45m | 14 |
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P1: (17) Take the grey ramp, then pull through a bulge on big holds. Clip the anchor, but then climb up left to the next anchor. P2: (19) A nice long slab. Save a bit of lip for the top.
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| 4 | 4Watch Out for That… Tree!, 19 | 19 | 45m | 14 |
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Start up Tightlipped, but after dealing with the bulge clip the anchor on the right and go straight up. A variation at grade 24 climbs to the first anchor, moves right to the arête and back left through the roof.
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| 5 | 5Two Stroke, 15 | 15 | 12m | 5 |
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Short blocky face
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| 6 | 6I Love the Smell of Chainsaws in the Morning, 21 | 21 | 21m | 8 |
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P1: (18) A nice bulge, mini corner and arête. P2: (21) The second pitch sports a hard pull through a bulge.
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| 7 | 7Muzzas, 22 | 22 | 25m | 7 |
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The dihedral and face, through an overlap. The face above proves to be the crux.
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| 8 | 8Pearl, 21 | 21 | 25m | 8 |
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A shallow corner to start, then up and left to easier ground. Now turn the crux bulge on the left.
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| 9 | 9Simon is Jovial, 21 | 21 | 15m | 6 |
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Start Pearl, then traverse out right and up.
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| 10 | 10Canary in a Coal Mine, 23 | 23 | 15m | 5 |
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Steep face climbing up and left on good black rock. Finish up Simon Is Gay.
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| 11 | 11Touch of Gray, 25 | 25 | 20m | 6 |
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Shares the same start as Canary but continues straight up.
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| 12 | 12Dream of Bobby Calves, 17 | 17 | 15m | 5 |
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An overhanging corner crack angles up and right to join After Bush.
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| 13 | 13After Bush, 18 | 18 | 25m | 8 |
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The steep white, featured face, then up and left over black bulging rock to steep face climbing under an overhanging corner feature.
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| 14 | 14Stolen Thunder, 18 | 18 | 25m | 9 |
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Lovely white rock and a groovy mantle make this one worth doing.
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Images
