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Pencil Dick Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Diamond Lake

Situated just above the lake, this wall provides good, long vertical climbing that is a real haven from the heat in summer months.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
20 min
Approach

From the Diamond Lake car park head up the DOC track to the lake and then Rocky Mountain. Just before the lake take the fork to the right and proceed around the south side of the lake about 200m to a small footbridge over the Diamond Lake outlet stream. Immediately after the bridge turn right again and follow the climber’s trail away from the lake. The trail first meets the cliff between Diamond Slab (to the left) and Hotline Corner (to the right). To get to Pencil Dick Wall, continue left past Diamond Slab for a minute.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Drop In, Drop Out, 18 18 15m 5
1.02

Excellent holds weave through the overlap.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 5
2 2Botox Viagra, 21 21 20m 8
1.02

One for the chemically challenged. A shallow arête, face and some good moves through overlaps.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 8
3 3Is it in Guy?, 21 21 20m 6
2.01

Great face climbing to the roof overlap, then some spacey moves.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 6
4 4Didn’t Touch The Sides, 21 21
3

Climb right leaning ramp to gain wall then up through overlap and hang on till the top.

  • P1
  • 21
  • m
5 5Take No Prisoners, 22 22 20m 8
2.01

The left edge of the black water streak. A challenging overlap and steep finish.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 8
6 6My Little One, 24 24 20m 7
2.01

The right edge of the black water streak. Can lead to a lot of dicking about.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 7
7 7Marshmallowing, 27 27 20m
2.01

Given away for a 6-pack.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 20m
8 8Stick It In, 20 20 20m 8
2.01

The crack required devious natural gear. Perhaps the fast talking, slow walking trad leaders were intimidated by the tale of David Hiddleston getting so pumped he dropped his rope threading the anchor, but it was rarely climbed, so it got bolted.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 8
9 9Reach for the Purple Love Truncheon, 26 26 20m 8
2.01

You’re on your own on this hard, airy classic.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 8
10 10Wet Winkle, 22 22 20m 8
1.02

Positive holds on white rock but a difficult, sequential finish.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 8
11 11Grazon Against Woolly Wullens, 25 25 18m 7
2.01

Spraying weeds at Mt Cook did nothing for his English. Start up white rock on positive holds, then make a tricky traverse right to the arête after the third bolt.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 18m
  • 7
12 12Magic Carpet Ride, 26 26 15m 5
0

A rich tapestry. Start off a pedestal right into some very hard moves over the bulge, then hang on for the ride.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 15m
  • 5
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
6394cab0-ecfa-4562-81ca-8f5e11ddc9b6