A classic area with a concentration of quality routes on mostly excellent rock.
From the Diamond Lake car park head up the DOC track to the lake and then Rocky Mountain. Just before the lake take the fork to the right and proceed around the south side of the lake about 200m to a small footbridge over the Diamond Lake outlet stream. Immediately after the bridge turn right again and follow the climber’s trail away from the lake. The trail first meets the cliff between Diamond Slab (to the left) and Hotline Corner (to the right).
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Big & Chossy Bedroom Sossy, 18 | 18 | 15m | 7 | |||
The off-width crack was originally climbed on big gear. But that’s not what you came to Wānaka for. Still a classic though.
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2 | 2Penance, 21 | 21 | 15m | 7 | |||
Is this what you came to Wānaka for? A technical face climb with good grips.
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3 | 3The Hotline, 22 | 22 | 15m | ||||
Almost worth coming to Wānaka just for this. Challenging thin crack and face climbing.
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4 | 4Hey George, 20 | 20 | 30m | 14 | |||
P1: (18) A dihedral corner to the break. P2: (20) Now you’re warmed up, tackle the thin crack and face.
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5 | 5Fuckity Fuck Fuck, 19 | 19 | 30m | 12 | |||
An extended face climb, up an arête and shallow corner system past an overlap to more steep face. The name is an accurate rendition of the rantings of a local legend.
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6 | 6Powder and Pills, 23 | 23 | 20m | 13 | |||
A heli-guide’s lament. Start Shitty Shit Shit but turn the overlap and head left up the face.
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7 | 7Shitty Shit Shit, 16 | 16 | 25m | 9 | |||
Don’t let the name put you off, this is an atmospheric voyage into the ether. The permadraw is to help clean afterwards.
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8 | 8Rigor Mortis, 18 | 18 | 15m | 5 | |||
start off Hey George’s top belay ledge. Make a bouldery move up and left into the dihedral corner and face.
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9 | 9Mortuary Slab, 23 | 23 | 15m | 6 | |||
start off Hey George’s top belay ledge. Sustained and technical slab climbing on thin holds.
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