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Lower Wall

Type

The first part of the buttress you meet on the normal access route. Faces the Tasman Sea, and sits just below the obvious lower slab.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 15 Step, 15 15 35m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 35m
  • Trad

Christian channeled his inner Englishman! Not recommended. Poor protection with weird steep-ish movement on the vague blocky face, and then up the Lower Slab.


 Purgatory Lost, 18 18 40m
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 40m
  • Trad

Just left of Chuffer Chimney. Pleasant laybacking up the thin flake feature for a few metres - take care to place cams where LHS flake is thickest and deepest. When the flake starts getting really thin (first ascensionist punched a good amount off), move up by sidepulling arête on right and RHS edges of crack. Join top half of Chuffer Chimney. Save a BD #4 cam for the top slab just in case something goes wrong.


 Chuffer Chimney, 16 16 40m
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 40m
  • Trad

Nice climbing up the chimney, and then over blockier ground, with lots of good cams throughout. Once again, save a #4 cam for the top.


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