Sol de Tarde

Sol de Tarde, the route of the evening sun. Sol de Tarde was four days in the making, and climbs one of the most stand out walls in Borland. Climbed in true Warren Harding style, the route was climbed ground-up, aid bolting and sky-hooking the crackless bottom half of the wall, whilst further up the wall, with some devious gardening, natural protection begun to appear. An outing which the first three pitches climbs sportingly on superb granite, in which is fully bolted. These pitches hosting some iconic features and movement. Whilst the remaining two pitches takes on some more adventurous climbing with natural protection in places. The first three pitches can be climbed as a well-protected sport route if trad experience is limited for the final two pitches. Be in for an adventure on the final two pitches as it takes hold of the true Borland style of adventure climbing. A single rack of cams from 0.3 - 3 and a set of nuts is suffice for the final two pitches. For the entirety of the route, 12 quickdraws is enough. Best climbed during the months late November - early April as the wall is south-facing and takes a day to dry after a period of rain. The wall gets sun in the late afternoon and makes a perfect location to climb on the warmer days. Most rappels are straight forward beside the second which a delicate diagonal rappel must be made to reach the third anchor of the route. Two sets of ropes is required for rappelling the fourth pitch, otherwise the first three pitches can be rappelled on a 60m rope. Approach - The approach to the Dusk Wall begins opposite the access road to the Confluence Crags. At the pipe which falls beneath the road, follow the stream down to the river. On the true-left side of the river, bright orange marking tape begins to appear. Follow this uphill for about 10 minutes following the obvious marked trail until it takes a hard left and enters the ferns. Push your way through the ferns (A line of weakness has been made) for about 3-5 minutes and the trail will lead you directly to the base of Sol de Tarde.
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Discover the sequence to move through the slopers, then follow the incredibly featured granite. Find the hidden hold, and mantle to the belay.


A mega-classic pitch. Follow the line of textured slopers and use delicate footwork to unlock the crux moves, then follow a line of good thin crimps. The belay is found on the left-hand side of the ledge.


Beautiful incut holds lead directly to the belay on the moderately sized ledge.


This is where the adventure climbing begins! In Borland style, bridge between the tussocks, placing gear as required. The belay is found at the top of the ramp at the base of the arete.


Bridge up the dihedral, placing protection and clipping the available bolts, take a rest on the ledge, then follow pleasant holds to the belay at the top of the wall.

Natural pro: 
FA - Troy Kendall and Matias Lotitto
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