The Dusk Wall is a large granite face in the Borland valley.
The wall is incredibly varied. The bottom having quartz dykes running through the granite, creating vein like features in places. Whilst the further up the wall you ascend the more featureless it becomes.
First ascended by Matias Lotitto and Troy Kendall over five days by methods of aid bolting and some dodgy runout gardening, The Dusk Wall is a standout wall in Borland.
The hope is to push Sol de Tarde to the top of the mountain, creating an easy access, big wall, in Southern Fiordland.
Image
Walktime
15-20 Minutes
Aspect
South
Access
Hope you don't mind a little bit of fern bashing. The approach begins opposite the access road to The Watchtower, Petite Wall, and The Den.
Scamper down the bank to the river heading slightly right, you may see some marking tape on the opposite bank. Cross the river, and head into the forest following the marking tape. Follow the tape through a patch of fern and uphill until it ends. From here, veer a sharp left into some fern and scrub, with some sporadic taping in places to lead you to the base of the wall.
Climb the near vertical slab to the third bolt. Commit to a boulder problem crux, and climb your way to the top. Double bolt ring anchor. (Pitch two is currently a project and in development.)
Sol de Tarde, the route of the evening sun.
Sol de Tarde was four days in the making, and climbs one of the most stand out walls in Borland.
Climbed in true Warren Harding style, the route was climbed ground-up, aid bolting and sky-hooking the crackless bottom half of the wall, whilst further up the wall, with some devious gardening, natural protection begun to appear.
An outing which the first three pitches climbs sportingly on superb granite, in which is fully bolted. These pitches hosting some iconic features and movement. Whilst the remaining two pitches takes on some more adventurous climbing with natural protection in places.
The first three pitches can be climbed as a well-protected sport route if trad experience is limited for the final two pitches.
Be in for an adventure on the final two pitches as it takes hold of the true Borland style of adventure climbing.
A single rack of cams from 0.3 - 3 and a set of nuts is suffice for the final two pitches. For the entirety of the route, 12 quickdraws is enough.
Best climbed during the months late November - early April as the wall is south-facing and takes a day to dry after a period of rain. The wall gets sun in the late afternoon and makes a perfect location to climb on the warmer days.
Most rappels are straight forward beside the second which a delicate diagonal rappel must be made to reach the third anchor of the route. Two sets of ropes is required for rappelling the fourth pitch, otherwise the first three pitches can be rappelled on a 60m rope.
Approach - The approach to the Dusk Wall begins opposite the access road to the Confluence Crags. At the pipe which falls beneath the road, follow the stream down to the river. On the true-left side of the river, bright orange marking tape begins to appear. Follow this uphill for about 10 minutes following the obvious marked trail until it takes a hard left and enters the ferns. Push your way through the ferns (A line of weakness has been made) for about 3-5 minutes and the trail will lead you directly to the base of Sol de Tarde.
P1
19
30m
12
Discover the sequence to move through the slopers, then follow the incredibly featured granite. Find the hidden hold, and mantle to the belay.
P2
20
30m
12
A mega-classic pitch. Follow the line of textured slopers and use delicate footwork to unlock the crux moves, then follow a line of good thin crimps. The belay is found on the left-hand side of the ledge.
P3
16
30m
12
Beautiful incut holds lead directly to the belay on the moderately sized ledge.
P4
14
40m
2
Trad
This is where the adventure climbing begins! In Borland style, bridge between the tussocks, placing gear as required. The belay is found at the top of the ramp at the base of the arete.
P5
19
35m
7
Trad
Bridge up the dihedral, placing protection and clipping the available bolts, take a rest on the ledge, then follow pleasant holds to the belay at the top of the wall.
