2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Southland
  5. Borland Valley
  6. Borland Valley South Branch Crags
  7. The Den

The Den

(10 routes)

The Den is a series of over hangs connected by access ledges.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
800m
Aspect: 
North East
Walk time: 
5 mins
Access: 

Once you have sight of the crag, follow the road a further 200m until the next set of pylons can be reached, there is a small road on the left to access the base (opposite this turn-off there is a road where it might be possible to make camp). From the base of the lower pylon follow cairns up the creek bed into the bush where there is a marked trail on the left hand side, this will take you to the right hand side of 'The Den'. The routes are located up on the forested ledges; there is a hand line, some fixed rope and bolts to help the cause - CAUTION - please take care when moving around on the ledges.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-45.738748000000, 167.418589000000
NZMS260: 
C44 758 818
Topo50: 
CE07 658 198
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
K Kiore 21 30m
2.01
 3bolts wire representing trad
Found at the very left end of cliff, traverse ledges to access belay ring bolt. Climb slab past 3 bolts into lower corner (pro) then follow your nose to gain the epic upper corner. FYI can be done as 2 small pitches, take double ups of medium sized cams.
Troy Mattingley 2014
Over Motional Wobble 24 30m
2.01
 10bolts
Climb first pitch of Old Man Winter to the past bolt. Continue straight up orange wall just left of arete.
Jimmy Finlayson FFA Feb 2020
OMW Old Man Winter 27
2.01
P1 24 P2 27
Zac Orme 2015
White Noise 26 35m
2.01
 140bolts
Start as for Foxy Red. Traverse left at second bolt along ledges to rad features and phat quartz dyke to the business end around the bulge.
Jacob Doornebosch FFA Feb 2020
FR Foxy red 23
1.02
 7bolts
Up the grey rock to the red streak.
Troy Mattingley, 2015
A Alibaba 28
2.01
 8bolts
Head right out on the slab then head up the the large rounded flake. Bust through the overhang to the ribbed flake thing above.
Zac Orme 2015
Mary had a little jamb 17 10m
1.02
 6bolts
A short bulbous wall takes you to a ledge where you follow a major quartz vein though a small roof to the anchor.
FFA Mary McFly 2021
Angry Ginger 24 17m
1.02
 5bolts
On the right side of the den off a ledge gained by using the orange fixed rope. Follow the quartz seam. Crux where it should be.
FFA Paddington Bear. feb 2020
W The Wanderer 17 ,17 ,18 , 75m
1.02
 1bolts wire representing trad
3 pitch adventure climb providing some bangin exposure and some good climbing on either side of a grubby 2nd pitch. Bolted belays all the way.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11737m1Yes
 

Left leaning ramp that takes you through some exposed climbing to semi-hanging bolted belay. Start at the very far right of the crag up the mossy slab trending left

21724mYes
 

Traverse hard left (stay low) to the tree and follow the dirty ol' ledges to the belay of old man winter.

31814mYes
 

This is what you came here for. Up the smashingly good corner to the best belay ledge of your life. A 30m rope stretching rap from here will land you at a bolt and a handline, where you can scramble off from

40mNo
 

Grassy ledge. unclimbed, but with a single ring at the end.
A 30m rap will reach the ground from here too.
Neil Warrington 2015
Espresso Crack 21 10m
1.02
 nabolts wire representing trad
Short punchy trad line to dba. Starts 15m right of of the wanderer.
sb 2020
UUID: 
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