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The Watch Tower


The obvious tower on the left as seen from the road.

10 mins
North West

Park up when the road side crags come into view. Walk up the bank and down to the left most pylon. Here a cairn marks the start of a flagged track up through beech forest to the base of the Watch Tower.

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Real Journeys, 25 25 68m 8

  • P1
  • 25
  • 18m
  • 5

The left most route on this wall. Climb the slabby face over the small overlap (crux) past three BR's before moving up and left through the ledge system to a double bolt anchor in a corner.

  • P2
  • 24
  • 23m
  • 7

Step left and climb the groove with difficulty to a ledge, either climb the face or gain the flake on the right and continue straight up to where the wall steepens then use a system of flakes and underlings to get to a double bolt rap station.

  • P3
  • 23
  • 27m
  • 8

Climb straight up the wall to the the third bolt before traversing horizontally right to gain the left facing corner system and overlap. Climb the corners and the small roof then move right along a system of horizontal flakes, continue straight up to a horizontal edges and breaks exiting around the left end of the large roof to a grassy ledge and rap station

 Energetic Disassembly, 23 23 18m 5

P1, Starts 5m to the right of Real Journeys. Undercling start off ledge. Thin
moves gains a big ledge. Mantle and traverse the break left and up on easier
ground to the anchor and start of MSC.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 18m
  • 5

 A Midsummer Calling, 28 28 27m 10

The exposed route above Energetic Dissasembly. Climb the short corner, step
right and pull onto the face and out to the arete. A hard sequence and clip
gains a rest and easier but athletic climbing to a great finale'. A few
ascents should clear off a bit more of the moss on the upper wall.

  • P1
  • 28
  • 27m
  • 10

 Secrets, 24 24 22m 9

Right most route on the real journeys wall. Technical slab leading to
overhanging flake. Great climbing but needs a dry spell.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 22m
  • 9

 The Autumn Tower, 26 26 50m 18

Climbs the full length of the gently overhanging golden wall facing the

  • P1
  • 26
  • 30m
  • 18

Start above the landscaped belay area. Thin moves lead out to the arete which is climbed until a small overlap. Delicate moves and guns out to the double anchor at 30 metres. Epic

  • P2
  • 22
  • 20m

Move off right from the hanging belay and blast straight up the headwall.

 Low Voltage, 23 23 15m 7

Climb The Autumn Tower to the fourth bolt before following the crack that
cuts off diagonally right across the lower face of the wall to end by the
Left hand extension is a closed project. Right hand extension is an open project described below.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 7

 Eurovision, V6 V6

V6. Below the Whachtower are three large fallen boulders, just to the left of
the track approaching the crag. The lower boulder has this stunning line.
Start both hands in the lowest part of the crack. Use the diagonal features
to move up right to the protruding nose on the lip. A lower start is yet to
be done.

  • P1
  • Hueco V6

 End of the world party project, 29 29

Open project 29+. Right hand extension to low voltage up the cool crystal dyke. Pay no mind to the red ownership tape on the first bolt. Have a crack. Don't get lost. Bolted by Simon Bischoff.

  • P1
  • 29