Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
The crag is just visible from the Gun Implacements. Try some of Tonys sport routes so the gorse does not take over.
Descend through the bush on the east (right hand) side of the crag
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| New Age Power, 24 | 24 | 7 |
|||||
7 bolts. It goes through the roofs where they are biggest. Start up TYATR for three bolts, then straight up through the roofs. One hold is glued. |
|||||||
| Into The Groove, 21 | 21 | ||||||
left of the other routes. Natural pro, finishes at chains at two-thirds height. |
|||||||
| Revenge of the Gorse, 20 | 20 | 2 |
|||||
Prominant corner at grassy clearing. Steep start with bolt at crux, then up |
|||||||
| In The Rough, 24 | 24 | 8 |
|||||
Start below the overhang left of “Par for the Course”, strenuous |
|||||||
| Ping, 24 | 24 | 7 |
|||||
Start as for “Par for the Course”, at the first bolt move left and up to |
|||||||
| Par for the Course, 19 | 19 | ||||||
Start at a wide crack (good wires) biridge right to gain the ledge. Then |
|||||||
| The world is a Vampire, 19 | 19 | 2 |
|||||
Start below the left edgeof the big roofs. Boulder up to 1st bolt (crux) the |
|||||||
| The Young And the Reckless, 22 | 22 | 4 |
|||||
Start at grooveand boulder to 1st bolt, climb thin wall past 2 more |
|||||||
| Eight Pints, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Not recomended! How else do you get up the ugly sister, (to put the rap |
|||||||
| Ameteur Productions, 18 | 18 | 22m | 6 |
||||
Start right of 8 pints. Climb arete, crossing 8 pints, trough small overhang |
|||||||
| Sideshow, 22 | 22 | 20m | 6 |
||||
Start right of AP, up through techo wall onto ledge & finish on bigger holds |
|||||||
| Stage Fright, 23 | 23 | 23m | 7 |
||||
Start using 1st bolt on Ss. Move rightwards to 2nd bolt through crux to |
|||||||
| Body Langauge, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Boulder up easy angled crack at rhside of wall. Up to the 1st roof ad pull |
|||||||
| The Bat, 25 | 25 | 5 |
|||||
Takes a line up the steep grove to the left of (Marcus Thomas Project) |
|||||||
| Slap Stick, 25 | 25 | 6 |
|||||
The over hang, left of the Harold Meyers corner. Start off the tree left of |
|||||||
| Comedy, 25 | 25 | 6 |
|||||
The roof left of the crack line taken by ‘Resurgence’. Start up |
|||||||
| Resurgence, 23 | 23 | 6 |
|||||
The over hanging, crack line left of Harold Meyers corner. Start up a groove |
|||||||
| Skid Mark, 21 | 21 | 6 |
|||||
The prominent corner with the brown streak in it’s left wall. Start up the |
|||||||
| Skid Row, 22 | 22 | 6 |
|||||
Start as for “Skid Mark” but at the second bolt continue up the steep |
|||||||
| Black Mass, 14 | 14 | ||||||
Up prominant black corner on RHS of crag. includes greasy rock & a dead tree, |
|||||||
| Game On!, 21 | 21 | 23m | 8 |
||||
Bolted route right of BM, following arete & face to the left of small roof to |
|||||||
Copied in by Grant piper