Middle Sister | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been a few rockfalls. A few new routes have resurfaced in the scars.
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
The biggest crag of the Sisters.
Occasionally gets the afternoon sun.

Aspect

South West

Access

Find the track between Twisted and Middle Sister and decend through the bush

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Unnamed, 23	23	7m	2	0
The short sport route at the left end of the crag P1 23 7m 2
	Anti-Tantie, 25	25		3	0
P1 25 3 bouldery cruz at 2nd bolt.
	Gold Soundz, 24	24	12m	2	0
The rounded arete. P1 24 12m 2
SO	SOShort Order, 16	16	8m		0
P1 16 8m Trad A right facing corner on the left of the cliff. Good climbing, crux at top. A right facing corner on the left of the cliff. Good climbing, crux at top.
	Desert Solitaire, 21	21	8m	1	0
P1 21 8m 1 Trad The smooth arete just R of Short Order. Pro from Short Order and a bolt. Friction, tricky. Brian Fish '81
	Caley, 23	23	8m	1	0
P1 23 8m 1 Trad The open corner with one bolt Ton Snelder '90
	Penal Rates, 22	22	22m	4	1.02
P1 22 22m 4 Trad The next arete. Start in the corner of A Bridge Too Far and delicately balance L across to the arete, then up. Two bolts, natural pro at the top. Bolt/chain belay. Lindsay Main '90
	Rib Eye, 21	21		4	0
Start at the undercut arête left of A Bridge Too Far climb the rib to the large roof. Use good holds left of a blind groove before a thin break takes you back to the arête and the third bolt, continue straight up to a double bolt belay. P1 21 4 Trad
B2F	B2FA Bridge Too Far, 17	17	14m		0
P1 17 14m Trad The second corner to the R of SO. Jam and bridge past a rib. Lindsay Main '77
JW	JWJoggersauras Wrecked, 20	20	16m		0
Sart at VC, move left using flake. Then up wall on RH side of the crackto a break and exit crack. P1 20 16m Trad
	Volcanic Cafe, 19	19	16m		0
P1 19 16m Trad A crack with a roof at 2/3 height. Nip up to the roof and grapple with the rounded holds above. Joe Arts '90
CD	CDCorner Dearie, 17	17	16m		1.02
The corner left of MWG, crux at start then cruise up gear eating corner P1 17 16m Trad
MWG	MWGThe Monkey Wrench Gang, 22	22	16m	3	2.01
P1 22 16m 3 Trad A powerful route up the wall L of Judge and Jury. Starts in a small corner (natural pro), then up the headwall going L then R. Three bolts. Joe Arts '90
	Lock & Key, 19	19	20m	5	2.01
P1 19 20m 5 Starts on arete immediately left of prominent rockfall scar. Committing moves into the hanging corner. Head right towards DBA at the top.
	Grassic Gibbon, 22	22	20m	6	2.01
P1 22 20m 6 Climbs wall to right of lock and key finishing at same lower off
	Sam's Squeeze, 10	10	18m		0
P1 10 18m Chimney up behind big detached pillar, exit by squeezing up and right through chockstones to victory. Bit chossy but no doubt will clean up with traffic.
NU	NUNasty & Unconstructive, 22	22	18m	5	1.02
P1 22 18m 5 Just right of SM, up the seam through the overhang. 5 bolts. Uses top bolt of SM. Joe Arts '91
FP	FPFlight Path, 20	20	18m		0
P1 20 18m Trad the wall right of FoF, natural pro. Tony Burnell '99
	Learning to Fly, 20	20	18m	4	0
Start up EA. Move L after 2nd bolt onto arete, then pull over small bulge P1 20 18m 4 Trad
EAS	EASEvasive Action, 18	18	25m	4	1.02
P1 17 18m 4 Trad Skirts the roofs. Up wall past a bolt to first roof and traverse R to the arete. Up past second bolt and into corner, up through notch to finish. Large CD at exit. Rebolted in '96. Lindsay Main '84 P2 18 7m Second pitch to Evasive Action. Follow bolts up the arête to a chain anchor at the top. Joe Arts '94
DE	DEDelayed Effect, 17	17	25m		0
P1 17 25m Trad Follows the centre of three vague cracks, starting to the right and moving left (crux) to reach the crack. Poor pro at first. Finish up the overhanging corner on good holds. Lindsay Main '81
	Afterglow, 18	18	22m		0
P1 18 22m Trad R of Delayed Effect. Bridge up groove (poor pro using D.E. crack further up) and up wall to arete (crux). Up over blocks to top. Lindsay Main '84
WO	WOWorking Overtime, 20	20	22m	1	1.02
P1 20 22m 1 Trad The arete R of A.. A technical testpiece. One bolt and small wires. Take CDs for the exit past bushes and up a corner. Lindsay Main '90
	Taking Care of Business, 20	20	22m		0
P1 20 22m Trad Incipient crack between Working Overtime and Ball and Chain. Good pro from small wires. CDs at top. Exit as for W.O. Lindsay Main '90
BC	BCBall & Chain, 15	15	20m		0
P1 15 20m Trad A flaring narrow chimney with jams at the back; crux at the small tree. Not recommended. Lindsay Main '77
PA	PAPain in the Arts, 18	18	20m	2	0
P1 18 20m 2 Trad Arête left of Sharks' Nest. Start from loose block to bolt, and follow nice moves up right edge of arête past bolt 2 to an easy section. To do part two, womble left and take off up steep overhanging red face past horizontal breaks (CDs) and maybe a bolt. The finish is strenuous and committing. Marcus Thomas '95
SN	SNShark's Nest, 16	16	20m		1.02
P1 16 20m Trad A good climb. Climb a L-facing corner with small holds and poor pro, moving L after 8m to easy ground. Then climb the crack through a bulge. A good climb. Climb a L-facing corner with small holds and poor pro, moving L after 8m to easy ground. Then climb the crack through a bulge.
PB	PBPrometheus Busted, 16	16	18m		1.02
P1 16 18m Trad Climb a short wall to a bulging jam crack (crux), then right to another crack and up to top. Lindsay Main '77
	Eliminate 'A', 22	22			1.02
Takes a line up the wall crossing through ‘Prometheus Busted’. Start at the same point but climb straight up the wall to a hanging flake facing right. Use the flake to climb through the bulge and move straight up the wall to where ‘P B’ moves right. Step left and follow the faint ‘S’ shaped groove up to final head wall. Make a couple of moves and gain the top just below the high point of the crag. Gear spaced double ropes an advantage. Climbed on site. P1 22 Trad
	Bolt Revolt, 23	23	18m		0
P1 23 18m Trad the bold arete to the right of PB Tony Burnell '99
	Grand Central Station, 10	10	12m		0
Obvoius crack , with a bit of vegitation. P1 10 12m Trad
	Kuriuos Oranji, 23	23	12m	2	0
On wall right of GCS though bulge. P1 23 12m 2 Trad
	Tangerine Scream, 22	22			1.02
Climbs the blunt arete to the left of ‘Clutching at Straws’, bold and unprotected to the final moves on ‘Clutching at Straws’. Climb the left side of the arete to a good ledge friend 11/2 in shallow pocket on left. Move up onto the good foot ledge on ‘C at S’ good wire placement finish as for ‘C at S’. Brushed before climbing. P1 22 Trad
	Clutching at Straws, 18	18	10m		0
P1 18 10m Trad On R side of cliff. Start up a R facing corner over a loose pillar. L onto a ledge on the arete, Then up slightly R over the bulge (crux). Adequate pro. Lindsay Main '84
	Golden Delicious, 22	22	7m	1	0
A short tricky climb on the Rh end of the crag P1 22 7m 1 Trad
J&J	J&JJudge & Jury, 17	17	16m		1.02
P1 17 16m Trad Start in a L-facing black corner above a tree, then swing through the roof and jam the crack.
FB	FBFrog buttress, 23	23	18m	7	1.02
Start behind tree R of J&J through layaways then veering left to steepening headwall P1 23 18m 7
	Jesse Owens, 19	19	18m	1	0
P1 19 18m 1 Trad Starts in an undercut corner/crack with grey rock. Power up past the bolt (crux), then move L to the cracked arete. Joe Arts '90
JOrhv	JOrhvJesse Owens Direct Finish, 19	19			0
P1 19 Trad From the top of the initial groove step out right onto the top of the pedestal. Continue direct up the cracks above to the top of the crag. Move left to the belay bolt of Suicide Etc. Climbed on sight .
FoF	FoFFear of Flying, 17	17	18m		2.01
P1 17 18m Trad An incipient crack leads to an impressive roof curving to the R. Climb the wall with no pro (16) and traverse R under the roof.
SM	SMSuicide Machine, 23	23	18m	3	1.02
P1 23 18m 3 Trad Up the wall L of Fear of Flying past two bolts and somewhat to the L of a third bolt, then up the corner above (CDs). Joe Arts '90

Images

Comments

This place appears in

Rock Deluxe South, 2014

Buy this guidebook

Attribution

By Lindsay Main, other added in climbs by Tony Burnell
Copied in & topo by Grant piper

UUID

2926b5e1-e78d-4f6b-9bce-8415a3a32ff5