Cwag W

Climbs the left arête of the wall to the left of Gorgeous Groove, gained from the blind crack in the lower tier (starting around to the R makes the grade a more consistent 14).

Climbs the wall just L of Gorgeous Groove, past a small shrub. The headwall is much steeper than it looks, with fairly good gear improving towards the top.

Found on the quake scar. Starts on a ramp of porous rock, go up the corner then onto the traditional splitter crack to the top of the climb

Start on the right edge of the quake scar, stay right of the arete, for 10m. Go back left over the arete, then follow the crack system for the rest of the climb to the DBB.

At the left end of the main face. Start at staple and gain the ledge. Veer rightwards going to left facing corner, when capped by the roof go rightwards onto the face, then through the overlap and on the band of pocks. Carry on up to the overhung right facing corner the exit out left to finish the last 5 metres of Right Hexit, to gain the anchors. Powerful moves.

Excellent sustained climbing. Uses a portion of the original Quail route (done by Allan Hill 1999) Start up directly to the fuchsia past the 1st staple . Move L and up left of a large flake, then slightly R and bridge over a void, to a bulge. Over this, and through notch to knobbly wall. Up to corner system, (2x 15-20mm cams) follow L-wards onto slopping ledge then negotiate the head wall via small corner, finishing at the double rap station in the LH facing corner

Goes through sections of the Quaker route. "And now for something completely different. " 3 cruxes of entertainment. Start left of the 1st staple, veer right to the traditional corner. Aim leftwards and up though the overlap under the split roof. Make your way through the roof, onto the ramp, then up the left facing corner onto the ledge. Clip the 6th staple, place a #8 wire above and to the left. Hit the lay back and onto the roll over to the rap station.

Superb climbing on good rock. Start just R of Quail at the fused block behind a bush. Up to OH at 4m, move R into corner (bomber wires). Climb up and step L to slab (cams), then layback the OH via the arête. Move L to OH below bush, over the bulge, move R and finish up the overhanging corner.

Start up the grey wall, past 3 staples. where the climb steepens up veer rightwards to haul on the positive holds, then work your way into base of the gully. From there exit out the left wall of the gully, then up the series of steps to the rap station.

Go to the grassy ledge above where the track goes downhill. Start on the huge chickenhead low in the wall and squirm up onto the slab. Move R into the cleft then straight up. Mantle up through the ledge/wall system at the top. Spaced pro.

Goes up a short wall past 3 staples intoa small crack to gain a ledge. Clip the 4th staple, then move leftwards on the ledge, and then up the left facing corner and onto the right side of the pillar, using the crack for wires. Finishing up the ramps to the rap station

Start up and L 10m, before vegetated gully. Up by orange steak, then up and LW through small notch to base of wide slanting crack. Avoid this on the R, then past tree to top.

The separate buttress some 15m to the R and lower down. Undercut start below the incut square hole, trending up and leftwards to finish left of pointed block. Large sling for block, and wires.

Start on the short steep knobbly white wall about 5m R of GG then up into the R-facing corner with two bushes and up onto the ledge. Move R up the wall and crack and exit on the arete. Good pro where it's needed. Phil Stuart-Jones '95

Start just R of the foot of Gorgeous Groove. Through a roof to slab below large hole (bomber wires #2-4 on right). Traverse R a few moves, then up the arête. Move back L to climb the LH OH. (A direct version goes straight past the hole to the OH on good holds, but poor protection).

Start 4m to the R by red incut. Over bulge to ledge, up wall to gear placements in L-facing corner above shrub. Traverse up and L to join and finish as for No Future.